welcome To The One Thimble Blog
– Measure the longest edge of your front and back bodice. Add them together and times by two and that is the minimum length required for pleats.
– The width I used for pleats is 3″
– I used a Ultimate Ruffler foot at a scale of 6, depth of 8 and stitch length 2.5 to create a ruffle factor of 2
– Tuck the raw ends in on each end and sew closed
– Attach as per ruffle instructions in Firefly pattern
– From the centre back line on the back bodice, measure 3/4″ (1.9cm) for zip allowance. Mark a line and cut this as your new centre back.
– Before doing mitred binding measure 0.5″ from the top and mark this as zip stop placement.
– Align the top of your zip stop to this mark and mark on the skirt where the bottom zip stop is.
– Sew a 3/4″ seam from the edge finishing at the bottom mark position and turn the fabric to create an L shape (as per Boo! Zip IT page 23-28 instructions). Repeat on other side.
– Place the back edges together with right sides facing and sew skirt together with a 1/2″ seam starting from the bottom of the seam allowance to the hem.
– Starting at around 2.2cm above the bottom edge of zip allowance, make a 45 degree cut in to the corner and fold down.
– Press open the skirt seam allowance on the wrong side.
– Press open the zip seam allowance on the right side using the stitch line as a guide for the fold.
– Position the zip and sew down ensuring the that ends of the zip has been folded under.
– Trim off the excess zip allowance and I also cut the top corner of the zip (about 5mm down and 1.5cm across) so that the back won’t be too bulky when I sew on the mitred binding
– Sew on the mitred binding