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Pattern Hack the Crossover Flounce Dress to a skirt

Hi there!  It’s Ajaire again and I’m back today with an add-on for the Crossover Flounce Dress I designed for Issue 11.  Those flounces were begging to be a stand-alone skirt so I have added a waistband, which along with the flounce pieces from the original pattern (available in Issue 11 here or on its own here) make a fun, twirly, reversible skirt!

You can download the waistband pattern pieces and the elastic measurement chart (combined as one pdf) here and then come back and follow the tutorial below to assemble the skirt.  Use the same instructions for printing as for the main Crossover Flounce Dress pattern.

Begin by gathering the pieces you’ll need:

Four flounce pieces from the original pattern (two mirrored from each fabric)
Two front waistbands (one of each fabric)
Two back waistbands (one of each fabric)
3/4″ (18mm) wide elastic (see chart in the waistband pdf for length)

Stitch the front and back waistbands together at the sides with the 3/8″ (1cm) seam allowance.  This is the seam allowance for the entire tutorial unless noted.  Do the same for the reverse fabric front and back waistbands.  the main fabric is the floral and the reverse fabric is the green for this tutorial

Press the seams open and then press up 1/4″ (6mm) to the wrong side along the bottom edge of the reverse fabric only.

With right sides together, pin the main and reverse waistbands together along the top edge, matching centers and side seams.

Stitch the seam.

Flip open so the wrong sides are up and press the seam open.  This will help the top of the waistband lay flat when the layers are pressed together.

Now flip the reverse fabric down over the main fabric with wrong sides together and press that top seam well.  The reverse fabric side will still have that 1/4″ (6mm) folded up to the wrong side.

And here is what the main side looks like:

Now assemble the flounces according to the Crossover Flounce Dress pattern and pin the centers and sides together.  Make sure one flounce has the short side and one flounce has the long side at each side.

Bring the waistband to the prepared flounces and line up the main fabric lower edge with the main fabric flounces with right sides facing.

Pin all the way around, making sure to match the centers and side seams of the waistband with the center and side markings on the flounces.

Stitch through all the layers, making sure to shift the flounces around a bit while sewing so nothing extra gets caught in the seam.

Flip the skirt and waistband with the reverse fabric side out and press the seam up toward the waistband.

Fold the waistband down with the previously folded over edge covering the seam and press well.

Cut the elastic to the length in the chart and overlap the ends by 1″ (2.5cm), forming a loop.  Stitch the overlap together to secure.

Pull the reverse fabric up and put the elastic loop around the main fabric waistband.

To create a channel for the elastic, push the elastic up to the top edge of the waistband and begin folding the reverse fabric back down over it.  Pin the fabric layers only and not through the elastic, just below where the elastic rests.

Continue tucking the elastic up, folding over, and pinning all the way around.  The elastic will slide through as you are pinning, which is what you want to happen.

This is what it will look like with everything pinned:

Stitch about 1″ (2.5cm) away from the top edge, encasing the elastic, but taking care not to stitch over the elastic, allowing the elastic to slide through as you go around.

Pin the folded edge down, covering the lower waistband seam.

Stitch from the main side (floral side) along the waistband seam (in the ditch in quilting terms), pulling pins and making sure to catch the folded over edge of the reverse side as you stitch.  Take care to use a coordinating bobbin thread!

Your reversible Crossover Flounce Skirt is complete!

It has the same amazing twirl factor that the original dress has so it’s sure to be a hit with your girl!  It was super hot out when we took these pics, so never mind the sour face on my girl, hehe.  She LOVES it!

Ajaire Parello
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