welcome To The One Thimble Blog
Toni-Maree from Bobbins & Co is back today to share an alternate method for sewing the collar on the Archie Shirt (by Ainslee Fox Boutique Patterns from Issue 6 of One Thimble Digital Sewing Magazine).
This method can also be used to sew two piece collars on other shirts.
Sewing two piece collars is one of those techniques that once you find the method that works for you you’ll be all set! Sometimes it takes trying out a few different tutes/patterns to find the one that’s right for you. So in the hopes that this method is the one that gives you your “eureka” moment lets jump right in!
1. Follow the Archie Shirt pattern up to step 25 to partially assemble your shirt. Interface your collar pieces ready to sew. As in step 25 of the Archie pattern, make sure you have trimmed the under collar piece.
2. Align one short end of the collar and sew.
3. Realign the other end of the collar and sew the second short end. The collar will buckle slightly on one side due to the difference in lengths.
4. Fold the two seam allowances to the inside and press.
5. Sew the top seam of the collar, and trim the corners.
6. Turn right sides out and press. Top stitch the collar.
7. Take your outer collar stand and align right sides together with the neck of your shirt. The seam allowance should stick out at both ends.
8. Sew to the neck of the shirt. This is the trickiest part and I find it easier to sew with the shirt on top, slowly realigning the seam as you go.
9. Take your collar and baste the unsewn edge to the top of the outer collar stand, making sure the right side is facing up as shown in the picture. Check that the collar is evenly placed on each side of the stand.
10. Once you have finished basting, double check that the under collar is facing the right way.
11. Align the inner collar stand piece on top of the outer collar stand, right sides together, sandwiching the collar inside.
12. Sew the top seam of the collar stand together. At the beginning and end, make sure to fold up the seam allowance at the bottom of the stand to match the other side. You can sew directionally as in step 34 of the pattern if you like. Use the edges of the button stand as a guide to ensure the collar stand curve finishes in the right place.
13. Trim and clip the seam allowances, especially at the curves. Turn the collar stand right sides out and press. Press the final edge of the inner collar stand under to just cover the neck seam line. Glue, pin or hand baste in place.
14. Top stitch the collar stand in place from the right side of the shirt to close the final neck seam.