welcome To The One Thimble Blog
Changing the placket style on a shirt sleeve, can give your shirt a whole different look.
For this blog post Toni-Maree from Bobbins & Co is showing us how to change the placket on the Archie Shirt sleeve from a “continuous bound placket” to a “chimney placket”.
Pieces you will need:
- 2 Sleeves
- 2 Placket pieces – 2 1/4″ x 7 1/2″ or 5.7cm x 19cm
NOTE: If you are using this method, you will also need to extend your cuff pattern piece by 3/4″ to allow for the extra placket width. The alternative is to make a pleat in the sleeve to take out the added width when adding the cuff.
How to sew your Chimney Placket:
1. Using the original marking for the sleeve placket, mark the slit line with chalk. Extend the marking by an extra 3/8 or 1cm in length.
2. Mark two stitching lines on either side, 3/8″ away from the centre and 3″ long. Square off the top. The top should measure 3/4″ or 2cm.
3. Cut open along the centre line, stopping where the centre marking ends. Cut diagonally into each corner as pictured. Don’t cut all the way, but get pretty close.
4. Align the right side of the placket piece with the right side of the sleeve slit. With the sleeve on top as pictured, start sewing with a 1cm seam allowance.
5. Stop with your needle down when you get to the corner you marked.
6. Raise your presser foot, and carefully fold/pleat the sleeve so that you can continue sewing straight along the marked line. Sew to the next corner.
7. Stop with your needle down in the corner, and again, carefully fold the sleeve to realign the sleeve opening straight along the placket edge. Sew the rest of the seam.
8. Iron the seam allowances toward the placket. If you are using quilting cotton or thick fabric, it is important at this step to trim the seam allowances, mostly the centre triangle and a few centimetres either side.
9. Fold the unfinished long edge of the placket in by 1cm and iron. Fold the placket in half so this ironed edge just covers the stitching line. Use glue to hold in place if you like.
10. From the right side of the sleeve, top stitch the placket closed making sure to catch both sides in the seam. Trim the end of the placket to be even with the sleeve.
11. Now lay the sleeve on the ironing board flat. With the small side laying flat, fold the other side of the sleeve placket as pictured. Depending on the thickness of the fabric, the angle you need to make a nice peak can change.
12. Fold the other side of the sleeve and placket over itself to form the peak. Experiment a bit to get a nice even shape.
13. Get out a hammer, and whack the bulk of the triangle peak. Hammering is like ironing on steroids. It will flatten the bulk as well as loosening the fibres to make sewing much easier.
14. Topstitch the peak at the top, and finish the ends by taking the threads to the back and tying them off there.