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How to Change a Continuous Bound Placket to a Chimney Placket on a Child’s Shirt Sleeve

Changing the placket style on a shirt sleeve, can give your shirt a whole different look.

For this blog post Toni-Maree from Bobbins & Co is showing us how to change the placket on the Archie Shirt sleeve from a “continuous bound placket” to a “chimney placket”.

How to sew a chimney placket

Pieces you will need:

  • 2 Sleeves
  • 2 Placket pieces – 2 1/4″ x 7 1/2″ or 5.7cm x 19cm
    NOTE: If you are using this method, you will also need to extend your cuff pattern piece by 3/4″ to allow for the extra placket width. The alternative is to make a pleat in the sleeve to take out the added width when adding the cuff.

How to sew your Chimney Placket:

1. Using the original marking for the sleeve placket, mark the slit line with chalk. Extend the marking by an extra 3/8 or 1cm in length.

Alternate Placket Archie Shirt Pattern Hack Picture1
2. Mark two stitching lines on either side, 3/8″ away from the centre and 3″ long. Square off the top. The top should measure 3/4″ or 2cm.

Alternate Placket Archie Shirt Pattern Hack Picture2
3. Cut open along the centre line, stopping where the centre marking ends. Cut diagonally into each corner as pictured. Don’t cut all the way, but get pretty close.

Alternate Placket Archie Shirt Pattern Hack Picture3
4. Align the right side of the placket piece with the right side of the sleeve slit. With the sleeve on top as pictured, start sewing with a 1cm seam allowance.

Alternate Placket Archie Shirt Pattern Hack Picture4
5. Stop with your needle down when you get to the corner you marked.

Alternate Placket Archie Shirt Pattern Hack Picture5
6. Raise your presser foot, and carefully fold/pleat the sleeve so that you can continue sewing straight along the marked line. Sew to the next corner.

Alternate Placket Archie Shirt Pattern Hack Picture6
7. Stop with your needle down in the corner, and again, carefully fold the sleeve to realign the sleeve opening straight along the placket edge. Sew the rest of the seam.

Alternate Placket Archie Shirt Pattern Hack Picture7
8. Iron the seam allowances toward the placket. If you are using quilting cotton or thick fabric, it is important at this step to trim the seam allowances, mostly the centre triangle and a few centimetres either side.

Alternate Placket Archie Shirt Pattern Hack Picture8
9. Fold the unfinished long edge of the placket in by 1cm and iron. Fold the placket in half so this ironed edge just covers the stitching line. Use glue to hold in place if you like.

Alternate Placket Archie Shirt Pattern Hack Picture9
10. From the right side of the sleeve, top stitch the placket closed making sure to catch both sides in the seam. Trim the end of the placket to be even with the sleeve.

Alternate Placket Archie Shirt Pattern Hack Picture10
11. Now lay the sleeve on the ironing board flat. With the small side laying flat, fold the other side of the sleeve placket as pictured. Depending on the thickness of the fabric, the angle you need to make a nice peak can change.

Alternate Placket Archie Shirt Pattern Hack Picture11
12. Fold the other side of the sleeve and placket over itself to form the peak. Experiment a bit to get a nice even shape.

Alternate Placket Archie Shirt Pattern Hack Picture12
13. Get out a hammer, and whack the bulk of the triangle peak. Hammering is like ironing on steroids. It will flatten the bulk as well as loosening the fibres to make sewing much easier.

Alternate Placket Archie Shirt Pattern Hack Picture13
14. Topstitch the peak at the top, and finish the ends by taking the threads to the back and tying them off there.

Alternate Placket Archie Shirt Pattern Hack Picture14
15. Finished!

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