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How to sew a Sakuro Clutch with Kraft-Tex
Guest Blog by Kylie from Little Moo Designs
Etched with a bohemian vibe, Little Moo Designs patterns are created for levels from beginners to intermediate. Kylie believes a new outfit is an excuse for a new handbag, and what better way to personalise your outfit than sewing your own unique bag or clutch. Kylie contributed the Sakuro Clutch to One Thimble Issue 13.
Have you ever wanted to sew a rolled hem ? Sheer fabrics long to be finished with a rolled hem —rolled hems are so beautiful and unobtrusive on sheer fabrics. Curved hems, too, are great candidates for a rolled hem, as you don’t have to ease in the extra hem width. Rolled hems are ideal for hemming ruffles. And of course, if you have just barely enough length for the garment, the small hem allowance of the rolled hem also makes it a winner.
How fun would it be to use the lined option for the Brook Blossom Skirt with a sheer fabric on top? Make the skirt a little fancier, more ethereal… The thing is, you don’t want to see the elastic (girls’ version) or zipper (ladies’ version) from the outside, so you do need to do things just a little different than when you use only opaque fabrics. It’s really simple, though. I’ll show you with the girls’ version.
(Because of the zipper, the ladies version has more small changes, so that will have to wait for a separate tutorial. Oh, the suspense!)
But first, some general tips on using sheers:
—Go slowly and carefully! Sheers tend to be difficult to work with, so take your time.
—Before you prewash the fabric, serge or zig-zag down the cut edges. These fabrics tend to fray a lot, especially in the wash, so let’s prevent that.
—Be aware that sheers often want to shift when cutting. I suggest using a rotary cutter and mat and pattern weights (small cans of food work great) in rather than scissors and pinning.
—A walking foot, while not necessary, is very helpful.
—To prevent your sewing machine from “eating” the fabric, hold the thread tails out of the way and gently pull them as you start sewing. Keep in mind that you are not using them to pull the fabric through the machine; rather, you are keeping just enough tension on the threads to keep the fabric from being pushed down into the machine. Once you’ve gotten going, you can drop the threads.
—I don’t typically use many pins when I sew, but with these misbehaving fabrics, I recommend using plenty of them. Keep the pins within the seam allowance, though, in case they leave a hole in these delicate fabrics.
—Be aware of your iron temperature! Some types of sheers will require low temperatures.
I hope I haven’t scared you away! You can do it!! Let’s go.
The biggest change you’ll need to make to sew up this skirt with a sheer top layer is to underline the yoke pieces. Underlining is not the same as lining; when you underline the garment, you sew a different type of fabric onto the fashion fabric and then use the joined pieces as if they were one. (You’ll see what I mean in a minute.) The underlining will strengthen the sheer, providing support for the yoke, and also hide the inner workings of the skirt. (Here’s a Craftsy article on the topic if you want more information.)
First, cut out an extra yoke (both front and back) from your lining fabric. These are pattern pieces 1 and 3. The picture shows all the things you need to cut from those pattern pieces. Yes, it’s a lot. On the plus side, the pieces are small, so you shouldn’t have to buy extra fabric for the extra yokes.
Fuse the interfacing onto the extra lining yokes, rather than onto the main (meaning sheer) fabric.
Layer the yoke pieces you just interfaced right side up with the sheer, also right side up, on top of them. Baste around the edges within the seam allowance. Remember to go slowly and use lots of pins!
Follow the pattern as written until it’s time to attach the skirt pieces to the yokes. There is only one change left!
Namely, the pattern directs you to attach the lining with the wrong side out/right side in. This is to give the most beautiful interior possible. With a sheer top layer, though, you will want the right side facing out, since you’ll be able to see it through the sheer.
It can help to baste (within the seam allowance so you don’t have to remove it later) the sheer skirt to the lining skirt, to keep the two skirts lined up properly.
Continue on as the pattern directs. Those are all the changes!
I love how this simple adaptation makes the already versatile Brook Blossom Skirt even more serviceable. Flower girl skirt? Sure! Fairy princess costume? Why not? And of course, my little redhead loves it for simply playing around at home. And my oldest daughter has already asked for one of her own.
You can purchase Jill’s pattern for the Girls Brook Blossom Skirt as a single PDF HERE or for the Brook Blossom Skirt (ladies sizes) HERE or visit her website to see more of her work HERE or purchase Issue 12 which contains this pattern HERE.
Ah, the French seam. So sophisticated, so couture, so professional. Beautiful on both sides, strong, and with all raw edges completely enclosed, the French seam is my favorite type of seam. I used them in the Girls Brook Blossom Skirt (ladies version, too) to give the skirt a beautifully finished interior. It’s the little things that take an article of clothing from homemade to handmade.
And French seams are not difficult to sew at all! The most difficult part of the whole process is remembering to start the seam off with the fabric wrong sides together.
French seams are best for light- to medium-weight woven fabrics, and are an especially great choice for sheers.
Today we have a very exciting guest blogger! Mandy Murray is here to share her tutorial for making a Liberty Rainbow Cushion.
Mandy Murray aims to inspire the younger generation to sew with fun and quirky designs! Working for Blessington, which is a major distributor of sewing machines and accessories, including notable brands Singer, Husqvarna Viking, PFAFF, Handi Quilter and AccuQuilt. She fulfils a career creating unique and innovative projects to share with and inspire others to sew! Mandy created this super cute Liberty Rainbow Cushion on a Singer sewing machine. From home décor and clothing construction, to embroidery and quilting, Singer is dedicated to helping people express their creativity!
o 40cm | 16” white cotton fabric
o (7) rainbow fat eighths (I used a variety of liberty prints)
o (7) rainbow embroidery threads
o White construction thread
o 40cm | 16” fusible web
o Tear away
From the white cotton fabric
o Cut (2) front & back pattern pieces
o Cut (1) 3 ½” x 43”
Download your pattern pieces here -> A3 Singer Liberty Rainbow Cushion Pattern Pieces
OR -> A4 & letter Singer Liberty Cushion Pattern Pieces
1. The technique used to construct the rainbow is basic fusible appliqué. Trace the appliqué pieces onto the paper side of the fusible web.
2. Cut around the outside of the shapes approximately ¼” from the line.
3. Iron these shapes onto the wrong side of the rainbow fabrics (refer to diagram 1).
4. Cut each shape out along the line.
5. Lay (1) front pattern piece onto an ironing board (right side facing up). Remove the paper backing from each of the appliqué pieces and position on top of the front pattern piece (refer to diagram 2).
6. Place a piece of tear away behind the rainbow.
7. Thread your machine with co-ordinating thread and select different decorative stitches. Sew down the middle where each colour of the rainbow joins (refer to diagram 3 & 4). Satin style decorative stitches work best for covering the raw edges!
Note: There is no need to stitch around the outer red section of the rainbow as this will be in the seam allowance once sewn together!
8.Gently remove the tear away from the back and trim threads (refer to diagram 5).
9. Mark the centre base of the rainbow and pin the rectangle at this point (right sides together).
Note: Leave a half inch seam allowance to join the short ends later.
10. Start sewing using a 2mm triple stitch with a 3/8” seam allowance.
Note: Stop approximately 3/8” from the corners (ensure your needle is down) and cut a slit in the rectangle. Pivot to continue sewing around the rainbow (refer to diagram 6).
11. Once you have sewn back to the centre point, match the short ends of the rectangle and sew together creating a complete tube. Press the seam open.
12. Mark the centre base of the back pattern piece and match up with the seam of the rectangle. Pin and begin sewing as per step 9, however leave a 3” gap in the base.
13. Clip the curves and turn the right way out through the hole you left at the bottom.
14. Stuff your rainbow cushion firmly and then hand sew the hole closed.
Congratulations on finishing your Liberty Rainbow Cushion!