welcome To The One Thimble Blog
This week we have Kate from Horris & Deedle on the blog sharing some awesome Applique tips and techniques. If you’ve missed the earlier posts be sure to check out the links below.
Read Monday’s blog post and download your FREE applique templates -> HERE.
Read Tuesday’s blog post and get all Kate’s best applique tips -> HERE
When I saw Jen’s article on ‘Freezer Paper Stenciling’ in the latest issue I was a little excited. Freezer Paper Stenciling has always been one of those things which I’ve seen on Pinterest and American Blogs. I’ve wished we could get it in Australia, a bit like how I felt when I was a kid and a friend would come back from a holiday in America with lots of cool lollies that I’d never seen before.
When I realized that we could buy it here in Australia I rushed down to my nearest Textile Traders (much easier to get into and out of than Spotlight) and found that they sell it too!
If you’ve read yesterday’s blog post you’ll know that one of my tips for adding interest to applique’s is to use layers. Freezer Paper stenciling is a great way to add another layer to your appliques.
My kids were so excited to watch the freezer paper stenciling and have ambitions of making their own shirts in the next school holidays.
I used some scrap linen for the nose area and tummy patch and the actual nose is a scrap from an old pair of brown pants.
I did the same things for Miss Kitty here …
I also used another of my tips for making your appliques interesting from yesterday’s blog post with Miss Kitty. Here she is looking to the side and her eyes look alert. Maybe she has spotted a mouse. Maybe she is ready to pounce and as my husband just remarked, maybe she is stuck in gaol.
Miss Kitty isn’t included with the other animal templates I provided on Monday but she is easy enough to make. Just use Miss Bunny’s body shape and add two little pointed ears instead.
You can download your free applique templates -> HERE
I hope this post inspires you to mix your applique and freezer paper stenciling up a bit. Be sure to come show us what you sew in the One Thimble Sewing Enthusiasts group on Facebook!
This week on the blog we have Kate from Horris & Deedle. She’s got a week of applique fun planned for you! Today she’s giving you some free applique templates, tomorrow she’s sharing her tips to take your appliques from ‘almost there’ to unique, on Wednesday she’ll show you how she’s combined freezer paper stenciling with applique with great results and on Thursday we’ll have an interview with Kate right here on the blog!
Bear and Bunny T-shirt Appliques.
Willow Shirt as a Shirt Dress.
I have always loved shirt dresses; they look so smart but are no-fuss and comfortable to wear. Here’s a quick tutorial to show you how to alter the Willow Shirt pattern to a dress length. You can use a wide variety of fabrics and make it any length you like with long or short sleeves. I recently made a size 12 in chambray for my friend’s granddaughter and added a tie belt. The design details and sewing instructions are the same as for the shirt.
To adjust the pattern:
1/ Trace out the complete pattern in the size required. Get a largish sheet of paper to make the new dress length pattern or enough paper to attach an extension to the existing pattern. There are three pattern pieces that will need to be lengthened; the main back, front and facing. All the other parts remain the same.
2/ Get the length measurement for the new dress: the most reliable place to measure length is on the centre back from the cervical bump at the base of the neck down to knee level. Then decide the finished length you would like for the dress; about 6 to 8cm / 2½-3” above the knee is a good length for a young girl. Note the finished length.
3/ Lengthen the back pattern:
Place the back yoke and body patterns together overlapping the yoke seam allowance. The edge of the yoke neckline sits at the cervical point on the body so measure down from here and mark the new hem length, add a couple of centimeters for the hem allowance.
Remove the yoke pattern and outline around the body pattern, use a ruler to extend the side seam and centre back lines to the new length.
If you want to keep the curved hem use the existing pattern to draw the new hem line. This will be a little wider now. Take care to get a squared 90 degree angle at the centre back/hem junction.
Make sure to mark the tuck notches at the yoke seam. Cut the new pattern out. The hem can be squared off if you prefer by lengthening the side seam to create a straighter hemline.
4/ Lengthen the front and facing patterns.
Outline around the front pattern. Mark the notch points on the armhole and neckline.
Place the new back pattern against the side seam and draw down so the front is the same length as the back.
Rule the centre front line down and use the existing pattern to shape the hem curve. Make sure to get a 90 degree angle at the centre front hem. Cut the pattern out.
Outline the facing and place the new front against the facing and draw down to get the new length and cut out.
Label the patterns and be sure to mark all the notch points,
The dress is ready to cut out now using all the remaining pattern pieces
If you want to add a tie belt simply decide how long and wide you want the finished belt, Use double the finished width for a bagged-out belt, add a small seam allowance and cut out. I also added belt loops to the waist of the dress.
To read the interview with Stephanie from earlier in the week check out this blog post HERE.
Thanks again for having me back Jen. The last post in our ‘Week of Sarah’ is a pattern hack for the Clubhouse Cushion.
A local farming friend has been updating her laundry. Now a laundry on a farm has to serve many functions. Not least of all is dealing with all the mud, dust and grease that comes home on farmer work clothes. This one also has a special spot for her kids to put their shoes on (oh to have children put their shoes on the first time you ask…..). There are cubbies underneath for each kid’s shoes and a long bench to sit on.
She bought a large piece of foam same size as the bench and some fabric she loved and asked me to make a cover. This is basically a Clubhouse Cushion. Different dimensions and inner filling but the construction was exactly the same. Hurrah to pattern hacks!
She wanted to be able to remove the cover to wash it every now and again so I added the zipper panel on one of the short ends (bonus is that it didn’t scratch the back of legs there). I cut the panels the same size as the foam except to add 1”/25mm for my seam allowances.
Simply sew the side panels together first into a big ring shape and then add the top and bottom, pivoting at each of the seams.
I’ve also discovered that it’s easier to clip your corners of your top and bottom panels at a diagonal just short of the seam allowance. It seems to make wiggling them into position a bit easier. If someone has a better way of doing this, I’m all ears.
Have you made a Clubhouse Cushion yet? Do you have a spot that could be easily updated with a covered foam pillow? Tell us about it in the comments below.
Just when you thought Alana from Rosie Petal’s Enid Slouch Beanie pattern couldn’t get any better she’s added an elastic back pattern hack!
It’ll take your Enid Slouch Beanie from
This to . . . . this!
Download your free pattern hack add-on ->Hack-Elastic-gathered-Beanie-by-Rosie-Petal and get sewing!