welcome To The One Thimble Blog
Hi there! It’s Ajaire again and I’m back today with an add-on for the Crossover Flounce Dress I designed for Issue 11. Those flounces were begging to be a stand-alone skirt so I have added a waistband, which along with the flounce pieces from the original pattern (available in Issue 11 here or on its own here) make a fun, twirly, reversible skirt!
You can download the waistband pattern pieces and the elastic measurement chart (combined as one pdf) here and then come back and follow the tutorial below to assemble the skirt. Use the same instructions for printing as for the main Crossover Flounce Dress pattern.
Begin by gathering the pieces you’ll need:
Four flounce pieces from the original pattern (two mirrored from each fabric)
Two front waistbands (one of each fabric)
Two back waistbands (one of each fabric)
3/4″ (18mm) wide elastic (see chart in the waistband pdf for length)
Stitch the front and back waistbands together at the sides with the 3/8″ (1cm) seam allowance. This is the seam allowance for the entire tutorial unless noted. Do the same for the reverse fabric front and back waistbands. the main fabric is the floral and the reverse fabric is the green for this tutorial
Press the seams open and then press up 1/4″ (6mm) to the wrong side along the bottom edge of the reverse fabric only.
With right sides together, pin the main and reverse waistbands together along the top edge, matching centers and side seams.
Stitch the seam.
Flip open so the wrong sides are up and press the seam open. This will help the top of the waistband lay flat when the layers are pressed together.
Now flip the reverse fabric down over the main fabric with wrong sides together and press that top seam well. The reverse fabric side will still have that 1/4″ (6mm) folded up to the wrong side.
And here is what the main side looks like:
Now assemble the flounces according to the Crossover Flounce Dress pattern and pin the centers and sides together. Make sure one flounce has the short side and one flounce has the long side at each side.
Bring the waistband to the prepared flounces and line up the main fabric lower edge with the main fabric flounces with right sides facing.
Pin all the way around, making sure to match the centers and side seams of the waistband with the center and side markings on the flounces.
Stitch through all the layers, making sure to shift the flounces around a bit while sewing so nothing extra gets caught in the seam.
Flip the skirt and waistband with the reverse fabric side out and press the seam up toward the waistband.
Fold the waistband down with the previously folded over edge covering the seam and press well.
Cut the elastic to the length in the chart and overlap the ends by 1″ (2.5cm), forming a loop. Stitch the overlap together to secure.
Pull the reverse fabric up and put the elastic loop around the main fabric waistband.
To create a channel for the elastic, push the elastic up to the top edge of the waistband and begin folding the reverse fabric back down over it. Pin the fabric layers only and not through the elastic, just below where the elastic rests.
Continue tucking the elastic up, folding over, and pinning all the way around. The elastic will slide through as you are pinning, which is what you want to happen.
This is what it will look like with everything pinned:
Stitch about 1″ (2.5cm) away from the top edge, encasing the elastic, but taking care not to stitch over the elastic, allowing the elastic to slide through as you go around.
Pin the folded edge down, covering the lower waistband seam.
Stitch from the main side (floral side) along the waistband seam (in the ditch in quilting terms), pulling pins and making sure to catch the folded over edge of the reverse side as you stitch. Take care to use a coordinating bobbin thread!
Your reversible Crossover Flounce Skirt is complete!
It has the same amazing twirl factor that the original dress has so it’s sure to be a hit with your girl! It was super hot out when we took these pics, so never mind the sour face on my girl, hehe. She LOVES it!
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Here in North Queensland we don’t really get a winter. I’ve heard our seasons described as hot and damn hot. I am not a fan of cold weather so this works out perfect for me, but it does mean that sometimes I end up designing winter wear that’s not super practical in colder areas.
The Marty Hoodie is the perfect weight for winter weather here in Cairns, but if you’re from further south (or further North in you’re in the Northern Hemisphere) you might be wishing that the cuffs and hem were ribbed to help keep the cold weather out.
Today’s blog post will show you how to add ribbing to the cuffs and hem of your Marty Hoodie.
With special thanks to Lina from Frokenhandig for letting me use images of her hoodie in this post.
How to add ribbing to your Marty Hoodie.
Step 1 – Adjust the pattern pieces
First up you’re going to need to adjust your sleeve, front and back pattern pieces to allow for the ribbing. You’ll need to take some length off these pieces to account for the ribbing length. To figure out how much to take off you should first decide how long you’re going to make your ribbing. I used the ribbing measurements from the Bonfire Jacket as my starting point.
- For size 1-2 I would like my ribbing to be 4cm (1 5/8″) long.
- For size 3-5 I would like my ribbing to be 5cm (2″) long
- For size 6-8 I would like my ribbing to be 6cm ( 2 3/8″) long
- For size 9-12 I would like my ribbing to be 7cm ( 2 3/4″) long
I will therefore take this amount + 0.6cm (1/4) for seam allowance off the bottom of my sleeve pattern pieces, and from my back and front pieces. If you’d like the ribbing on your cuffs and your hem to be different lengths that is fine, you’ll just need to work out what amount to take off the cuffs and off the front/back pieces. The Marty sleeves are quite long so you might choose to take more or less off depending on the look you’re looking for. example for size 8 I will take 6.6cm off the length of my arm pieces
Step 2 – Work out how much ribbing to use.
The ribbing is folded in half when attached to the hoodie and you need to include a seam allowance on each side of the ribbing. Therefore using the example above for a size 8 I will cut my ribbing 13.2cm (5 1/8″) long. This will give me a 6cm (2 3/8″) ribbing cuff/hem when attached.
Figuring out the ribbing width is going to take a bit of fiddling to get right. Depending on the stretchiness of your ribbing and the stretchiness of your main fabric you might need to cut your ribbing longer or shorter than me. As a general rule you want your ribbing to be about 3/4 to 2/3 of the length of the hem you’re sewing it to. Measure your pattern piece hem, take out the seam allowance and go from there.
Step 3 – Attach your ribbing to your hoodie
Fold your ribbing in half widthwise, right sides together and sew the sides together so that you have a ribbing circle.
Fold in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, matching raw edges, with the overlocking on the inside.
Pin in quarters your ribbing and the hem.
Match the raw edges with the ribbing on the outside.
Sew together, right sides together with the ribbing on top, stretching the ribbing so that the quarter marks match. If you find this tricky or are worried about pins near your overlocker, baste on your sewing machine first.
Fold the ribbing downwards. Press the seam upwards.
Optionally you can topstitch the seam in place with your stitches on the hoodie using a twin needle.
Step 4 – Repeat
Repeat step 3 for the second cuff and the hem.
Your hoodie with ribbing is complete!
If you add ribbing to your Marty Hoodie I’d love to see! Come show me in the One Thimble Sewing Enthusiasts group on Facebook or tag me on Instagram or comment below. I love to see what you create!
The Marty Hoodie pattern comes with a fun kanga panel pocket. But when I drafted it, I made the pattern piece for the kanga panel pocket to just fit the tunic version not the hoodie dress. Since release we’ve had quite a few people asking how to add a kanga pocket panel option to the dress length.
So today I’m going to show you how to alter the kanga pocket panel pattern piece so you can make your Marty Hoodie dress with a kanga panel pocket.
How to adjust the pieces for your Marty Hoodie Dress Kanga Pocket. . .
Begin with your front piece and your kanga pocket panel piece.
Step 1: Measure the difference between the tunic and dress lengths.
Step 2: Add the length you calculated in step 1 to the bottom of the kanga pocket panel piece and draw your new pattern piece.
Step 3: Your new kanga pocket panel pattern piece is now complete. Remember to use the Marty Hoodie Kanga Top Front Panel Tunic piece (unaltered) instead of the Marty Hoodie Front Piece.
From here on it’s simply a matter of following the pattern instructions for making a tunic with kanga pocket panel option. Don’t forget to lay your front and back panels beside each other after you’ve attached the kanga pocket to ensure they’re the same length before going on.
These terrific versions of the Marty Hoodie were sewn by Danielle from Number 92.
If you sew a Marty Hoodie Dress with a kanga pocket I’d love to see! Come show me in the One Thimble Sewing Enthusiasts group on Facebook or tag me on Instagram or comment below. I love to see what you create!
Have you ever wandered round and round the fabric store and not found the perfect fabric for a project . . . only to have the ideal fabric pretty much jump out at you somewhere unexpected?
This was me looking for the fabric for the Marty Hoodie for the cover of Issue 11. In the end I sewed this Marty Hoodie using some knit I had on hand, an extra large mans tee, a pair of baby leggings and a toddler shirt!
I’m definitely no expert at upcycling but I had so much fun doing it. I wanted to share a few practical tips for sewing with upcycled clothing. For plenty more ideas you definitely need to check out the article by Candice Ayala from issue 11 or this blog post by Irene from Serger Pepper.
Practical tips for upcycling:
- When you’re combining different knit fabrics in a garment it’s important to check that the stretch of them is similar. If you don’t do this you can end up with a finished garment that is too tight in some places and too loose in other places. With the upcycled mans shirt I found there was a large variation in stretch between the ones I had. I ended up using a different shirt to that I’d intended, as the stretch of the first shirt was so much more than the other pieces.
- If you’re cutting pattern pieces in new spots (eg I cut the arm pieces in half) don’t forget to add your seam allowance to both sides of your new pieces. For this hoodie I split the sleeves so I could have two different fabrics in them. I added an extra 6mm (1/4″) seam allowance to the bottom of the top sleeve piece and an extra 6mm (1/4″) seam allowance to the top of the bottom sleeve piece.
- I’m not great at visualising things, so I found it really helpful to lay out my hoodie and move the pieces around till I got the look I was happy with.
If you decide to upcycle some fabrics for your sewing projects I’d love to see! Come show me in the One Thimble Sewing Enthusiasts group on Facebook!
I’ve got a confession … I ran out of time for all the options I wanted to add to the Marty Hoodie pattern. BUT all is not lost – I’ve decided to post the hacks/options up on the blog. As an added bonus you’ll be able to apply many of these “hacks” to other patterns.
How to make a sleeveless Marty Hoodie
I chose to finish my armholes on the sleeveless Marty Hoodie with self-binding.
.1.Cut your armhole binding.
I cut mine 4cm (1 5/8″) wide and 40cm (16″) long for size 8.
For size 1 you’ll need about 8cm (3″) less and for size 12 you’ll need about 8cm (3″) more.
You want it to be a couple of cm (3/4″ish) smaller than the armhole measurement so it’ll pull in nicely. I find it easiest to cut more than I’ll need and then trim off the excess rather than risking being caught short. Different knits with different amounts of stretch might need a longer or shorter amount of binding.
.2. Press the armhole binding in half, wrong sides together.
.3. Align the raw edges of the armhole binding with the raw edges of the armhole. Leave 20mm (3/4”) overhanging at the start and the end. Sew together.
.4. Leave the armhole binding pointing upwards when you sew the side-seams. This will allow you to hide the top of the sideseam, when you fold the binding down in step 7.
.5. Right sides together match the side seams and sew together.
.6. Press the seam towards the back.
.7. Fold the armhole binding to the inside.
.8. Using a twin needle stitch along the armhole on the outside to hold the armhole binding in place.
.9. Your hoodie is done!
So I know she looks pretty unhappy in this photo, but this is her tough chick look! She was quite a fan of this version!
How to make a hoodless Marty Hoodie
This is a super easy hack! To do this version simply leave the hood off. The neckbinding piece included in the pattern will finish the neckline off nicely. You could leave it sticking up, but I much prefer the look when the neckbinding is stitched down for the hoodless Marty.
If you’d like to have ribbing at the neck instead of the neckbinding check out the blog post on adding ribbing hems and cuffs to your Marty Hoodie later in the week.
This hoodless-sleeveless version below also shows another of the hacks I’ll be showing you this week – sewing a dress with a kanga pocket!
If you decide to use any of these pattern hacks I’d love to see! Come show me in the One Thimble Sewing Enthusiasts group on Facebook!