welcome To The One Thimble Blog
The pockets are sewn inseam and are a perfect supplement to add a little something special to your girl’s dress.
Want yet another hemline for the Brook Blossom Skirt for you and your girls? Anya, who blogs
over at Anna Zoe and was one of my wonderful pattern testers, came up with this beautiful pattern hack—the Subtle High-Low Hem. She explains here how she made the change. I’m going to explain another way to do it.
Hello all you One Thimble fans, I am super excited to be here today with you all. I’m Suzanne of Winter Wear Designs, and I’ve got a fun and easy hack for the Cozumel that will make it even more versatile in your kiddo’s wardrobes.
This wasn’t the hack that I originally thought I was going to write for you all today, but after a few comments from fellow seamstresses about sons who weren’t huge pintuck fans, or having fears of tackling pintucks, or having fabrics that got lost or distorted in the pintucks; I knew that this was the perfect first tutorial for the Cozumel. Today I am going to show you how to get rid of the pin ticks and make a flat front Cozumel. I’ll show you how to make two back options as well, one with a center pleat and one flat back. And the options just keep coming!!!!
All righty, here’s what you need for this hack:
- The Front Pattern Piece
- The Back Shirt Pattern Piece
- Marking Tool
- Ruler/Straight Edge
- Take your Front pattern piece and make a mark at the first pleat marking (closest to the neck opening).
- Measure from that point 1.5 inches across the shoulder and make another mark.
- Repeat at the bottom of the shirt.
- Connect the lines top and bottom.
- Fold the pattern together so that the lines meet up, pleating out the excess pattern.
- Use a piece of tape to hold the pattern together.( you can take the tape off later to cut a pintuck version).
- Take your back pattern piece, measure 1 inch in from center for the pleated back, or 2 inches in from center for the flat back option.
- Draw a line straight down and line the fold of your fabric up on that line to cut the back.
- Cut the remainder of your pieces and assemble according to the instructions skipping the pintuck section.
- *for the back pleat: fold wrong sides together and sew one inch in from the fold 1 inch down. Press the center of the fold toward the seam to make a box pleat and baste in place.
That’s it – now you’ve got a flat front Cozumel to mix in with your pintuck ones. What I love about this hack is that is allowed me to use this great print from Hawthorne Threads that would have gotten lost a bit in the pintucks – WOHOOO!
I originally sewed this dress while testing the pattern last February, when winter was at its peak in Canada! Can you tell that I was dreaming of summer? Gold fabrics, gold buttons, glitter gold heat transfer and gold sequins! The oversize patch pocket of the design was the perfect scale for a little applique fun. I did cheetah pockets on this dress, but really, the possibilities are infinite!
Fabrics and Supplies: These are the fabrics that I used, but you could substitute all the fabrics to create something completely different and just as fun!
- You will need all the regular free motion applique supplies:
- Heat n’ Bond Light (or a sewable spray adhesive such as 505. If you decide not to use Heat n’ Bond Light, you will need to put Fray Check to keep the raw edges from fraying).
- Free motion foot
- Medium weight embroidery stabilizer
- Thread! Basically, free motion sewing is like drawing with thread on a piece of fabric. You will want to choose a color of thread that won’t get lost in the details. Black is the most common used thread color because it resembles a real drawing.
- Cheetah print Fabric: I used Cheetah Gold Standard/ Simply Sterling designed by Maria Kalinoieski for Kanvas with ©Bernatex, but any cheetah print will do.
- Lining Fabric: Michael Miller Cotton Couture in Gold
- Contrast Fabrics: scraps of Michael Miller Cotton Couture in White and Black
- Nose: a scrap of Glitter Iron-on (I used Cricut, but any glitter heat transfer material will do). Alternately, you could also use a piece of fabric for the nose applique.
- Sequins, seed beads and a beading needle
Download your pocket/applique pattern pieces HERE -> Hoya Dress Cheetah Pocket Hack by Élégantine
The pocket pattern pieces (head and ear) include a ¼ inch seam allowance. The applique templates don’t include a seam allowance and are intended that way.
You will cut:
- 2x Heads (1 x main fabric and 1 x lining fabric)
- 2x pairs of ears, mirrored (2 x main fabric and 2 x lining fabric)
- 1x Jowls
- 1x nose
- 2x Eye whites
- 2x Dark of eyes
Now let’s get started!
Step 1: Iron all the appliques on the main fabric pocket piece to create a Cheetah Face. Alternatively, you could use a sewable spray adhesive.
Step2. Transfer the mouth detail on the face with an erasable fabric marker or chalk. Free motion sew on all the inner details and inner outlines making sure to leave an ¼ inch blank space all around for the seam allowance.
Step 3. Pin both pairs of ears with the ears lining right sides together and stitch using a ¼ seam allowance. Clip the curve use pinking shears all around the ears.
Step 4. Turn right side out and press.
Step 5. Make a little snip of about 1/8” long on the raw edges of the ears. This will help match the curve of the rounded pocket and the ears will lay flat once the pocket is assembled.
Step 6. Fold the pocket piece in half and press to mark the center. On the top of the head, 1 inch from each side of the crease, align the raw edges of the ears right side to right side with the head. Spread the ears following the curve on the head using the little snips at the base of the ears. Stitch using a ¼ seam allowance.
Step 7. Place the pocket lining on top, right side to right side, and stitch all around leaving a 1.5 inch gap in the bottom to turn it the right way out.
Step 8. Clip into the seam allowance all around the pocket (leaving the unstitched part unclipped) or use pinking shears.
Step 9. Turn the pocket right side out.
Step 10. Fold the 1.5 inch opening inside following the curve of the pocket and press.
Step 11. Topstitch the top of the pocket starting in the middle of an ear to the middle of the other one.
Step 12. Pin the head on the side seam of the skirt and finish topstitching all around the pocket.
Step 13. Sequins: Starting at the base of an ear, pull your thread through the back, sew on a sequin from the back, through a seed bead, back into the sequin and into the fabric. The seed bead will hold the sequin in place on the ear. Continue to sew sequins every ¼ inch this way all around the ear.
Note: Step 12 shows a photo of the pocket with the sequins already sewn on. But the sequins were sewed after topstitching. I did not sew a complete new garment for this tutorial since the dress still fits my daughter perfectly! I used the finished garment for some photos.
Sequins are of course optional, but they add a little glam to the garment that my kid loves… and let’s face it, I love it too!!
Valerie from Élégantine!
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Blog – http://www.elegantine.com/