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– Measure the longest edge of your front and back bodice. Add them together and times by two and that is the minimum length required for pleats.
– The width I used for pleats is 3″
– I used a Ultimate Ruffler foot at a scale of 6, depth of 8 and stitch length 2.5 to create a ruffle factor of 2
– Tuck the raw ends in on each end and sew closed
– Attach as per ruffle instructions in Firefly pattern
– From the centre back line on the back bodice, measure 3/4″ (1.9cm) for zip allowance. Mark a line and cut this as your new centre back.
– Before doing mitred binding measure 0.5″ from the top and mark this as zip stop placement.
– Align the top of your zip stop to this mark and mark on the skirt where the bottom zip stop is.
– Sew a 3/4″ seam from the edge finishing at the bottom mark position and turn the fabric to create an L shape (as per Boo! Zip IT page 23-28 instructions). Repeat on other side.
– Place the back edges together with right sides facing and sew skirt together with a 1/2″ seam starting from the bottom of the seam allowance to the hem.
– Starting at around 2.2cm above the bottom edge of zip allowance, make a 45 degree cut in to the corner and fold down.
– Press open the skirt seam allowance on the wrong side.
– Press open the zip seam allowance on the right side using the stitch line as a guide for the fold.
– Position the zip and sew down ensuring the that ends of the zip has been folded under.
– Trim off the excess zip allowance and I also cut the top corner of the zip (about 5mm down and 1.5cm across) so that the back won’t be too bulky when I sew on the mitred binding
– Sew on the mitred binding
During her testing for the Firefly dress for Issue 4 Kristie from BOO! Designs asked her testers to make a “pimped”version to show the versatility of this pattern. Some of her testers have agreed to share their “How to’s” for their Pimped Firefly’s with us!
First up we have Tina from Damsels and Dragons.
Her Firefly – Firefly was a real standout for me! Check out the Firefly embroidery on the bodice – so so so cool!
So how’d she do it?
* Instead of ruffles Tina used ric rac trim along the front panel.
* She used the bodice front lining panel for the outer and lining so she would have enough room for the embroidered firefly jar.
* She also closed the back skirt panel in instead of having buttons all the way down.
* Instead of having a square neckline with bias she reshaped it to a curve and used a thinner bias tape.
|Next time we’ll have Steph from Owl & I talking us through her version of the Firefly.If you haven’t already be sure to pick up your copy of the Firefly dress
* as a Single PDF HERE
* or as part of Issue 4 HERE
and check out more BOO! Designs patterns HERE
I do love making the Bow Peep dress as per the pattern but every now and then a customers fabric choices mean a variation is called for.
For this dress my friend wanted to use a stripey fabric for the sash. One of the main features of the Bow Peep dress is the loops at the front that the sash threads through, but for this dress it wasn’t really necessary as the fabric choice gave that effect anyway.
We decided to sew the sash into the side-seams so that it was no longer removable as well.
Steps to make the sash of your Bow Peep dress internal.
To make a dress like this you’ll need to make a couple of small changes to your Bow Peep pattern/tutorial:
1. You won’t need the loops for the front or to cut the front sash panel pieces.
2. Skip step 2, 3, 4
3. After step 7. Do step 49-52.
4. Then gather the sashes to match the width of the bottom of the front bodice panel (it’ll be about 1-2″ or 3-5cm wide depending on the size you’re making).
5. Baste the sashes to the side seam.
6. Continue with step 8-48
7. Skip step 49-59
8. Complete step 60 – 63
|You can purchase my pattern for the Bow Peep Dress as a single pattern HERE
Purchase Issue 1 which contains this pattern
or visit my website to find out more about my other patterns.
With the Mem Rose Skirt I really wanted to experiment with a different way to do the elastic at the back. During testing I found that some people loved the way I did it in the pattern but some people preferred to have a regular elastic back on their Mem Rose Skirt. I decided the solution was to do a Blog article explaining how you can change the back over rather than trying to include both options in the e-zine!
This blog post will give you a quick rundown on the steps you’ll need to change in order to put a regular elastic back on your Mem Rose Skirt. If you have any questions please get in touch.
Steps to swap your Mem Rose Skirt to a regular elastic back
Follow the tutorial making the following changes.
A. Use 2.5cm (1″) wide elastic. Cut one length of elastic. Cut 2x back yoke pieces (one from your main fabric and one from your lining fabric). The back yoke pieces are rectangles. You’ll find the measurements for the back yoke and the elastic in the “Additional Pieces to cut out table”.
B. Follow step 1-5 from the e-zine tutorial.
C. Skip step 6 from the e-zine tutorial.
D. Follow step 7-9 from the e-zine tutorial.
E. Repeat step 9 for the back yoke main and back yoke lining.
F. Follow step 10 from the e-zine tutorial.
G. Skip step 11-15 from the e-zine tutorial.
H. Follow step 16 and 17 from the e-zine tutorial. Repeat step 16 and 17 for the back yoke.
I. Follow step 18 from the e-zine tutorial.
J. Skip step 19-23. (Complete step K-Q before referring back to the e-zine tutorial.)
K. Match the front and back skirt at the side-seams and sew the sideseams. Overlock (or otherwise finish) the sideseams and iron the sideseams towards the back.
L. Fold the yoke linings back down to the inside.
M. Pin (or sewline glue) the back and front lining in place on the inside. The yoke lining should just cover the seam allowance when you pin or glue it in place because you folded up the bottom of the yoke linings in step 17. Leave a gap, unpinned or glued, about 2.5cm (1″) long at each sideseam.
N. Turn your skirt out the right way. Working from the right side of your skirt topstitch the back and front yoke main, along the bottom, where it meets the skirt. Make sure to catch the bottom of the yoke linings (which you pinned or glued in place in step M) when you topstitch along the bottom of the yokes. Leave a gap, unstitched, about 2.5cm (1″) long at each sideseam.
O. Topstitch the tops of the yokes.
P. Attach a safety pin and thread the elastic through the back casing. Position your elastic near the top of the back casing. Sew the ends of the elastic in place – taking care that your elastic is not twisted. The elastic is just threaded through the back not the front. The Mem Rose Skirt has a “flat front”.
Q. Topstitch the gaps you left in the topstitching at the bottom of the yoke at the side seam closed.
R. Complete step 24 and 25.
S. Skip step 26 & 27.
|You can purchase Jen’s pattern for the Mem Rose Skirt as a single pattern HERE
Purchase Issue 4 which contains this pattern
or visit Jen’s website to find out more about her other patterns.