welcome To The One Thimble Blog
Toni-Maree from Bobbins & Co is back today to show you how to make a split cut bias. She uses the Archie Shirt (by Ainslee Fox Boutique Patterns from Issue 6 of One Thimble Digital Sewing Magazine) in her example but you could use this method on any yoke. This super example above was made by Shelley from and me designs.
- Add a 1cm or 3/8″ seam allowance to the fold line of the yoke pattern piece.
2. Decide on the angle you would like the stripe or pattern to run at. Cut one side of the yoke out.
3. Flip the cut yoke piece over to the wrong side. Align the stripes as accurately as you can, especially near the centre back seam.
4. Optional: You can now place your pattern over top to stabilise as you cut but its not necessary.
5. Cut your opposing yoke piece.
6. Right sides together, match the centre back stripes. This should be easy if your cutting was accurate. Sew the centre back seam and press seam allowances open.
This method can also be used to sew cuffs on other shirts.
Sewing cuffs is one of those techniques that once you find the method that works for you you’ll be all set! Sometimes it takes trying out a few different tutes/patterns to find the one that’s right for you. So in the hopes that this method is the one that gives you your “eureka” moment lets jump right in!
- Iron your cuff piece in half and then on one side, pre-iron the 1cm seam allowance to the wrong side.
2. Sew the un-ironed side of the cuff, right sides together, to the bottom of the sleeve.
3. Fold the cuff in half, the wrong way, so that the right sides of the cuff are facing.
4. Sew the ends of the cuff shut. Make sure your seam aligns with the edge of the placket.
5. Turn the cuff right side out, press. Secure the unsewn part in place with glue or pins.
6. Top stitch the cuff from the right side.
Toni-Maree from Bobbins & Co is back today to share an alternate method for sewing the collar on the Archie Shirt (by Ainslee Fox Boutique Patterns from Issue 6 of One Thimble Digital Sewing Magazine).
This method can also be used to sew two piece collars on other shirts.
Sewing two piece collars is one of those techniques that once you find the method that works for you you’ll be all set! Sometimes it takes trying out a few different tutes/patterns to find the one that’s right for you. So in the hopes that this method is the one that gives you your “eureka” moment lets jump right in!
1. Follow the Archie Shirt pattern up to step 25 to partially assemble your shirt. Interface your collar pieces ready to sew. As in step 25 of the Archie pattern, make sure you have trimmed the under collar piece.
2. Align one short end of the collar and sew.
3. Realign the other end of the collar and sew the second short end. The collar will buckle slightly on one side due to the difference in lengths.
4. Fold the two seam allowances to the inside and press.
5. Sew the top seam of the collar, and trim the corners.
6. Turn right sides out and press. Top stitch the collar.
7. Take your outer collar stand and align right sides together with the neck of your shirt. The seam allowance should stick out at both ends.
8. Sew to the neck of the shirt. This is the trickiest part and I find it easier to sew with the shirt on top, slowly realigning the seam as you go.
9. Take your collar and baste the unsewn edge to the top of the outer collar stand, making sure the right side is facing up as shown in the picture. Check that the collar is evenly placed on each side of the stand.
10. Once you have finished basting, double check that the under collar is facing the right way.
11. Align the inner collar stand piece on top of the outer collar stand, right sides together, sandwiching the collar inside.
12. Sew the top seam of the collar stand together. At the beginning and end, make sure to fold up the seam allowance at the bottom of the stand to match the other side. You can sew directionally as in step 34 of the pattern if you like. Use the edges of the button stand as a guide to ensure the collar stand curve finishes in the right place.
13. Trim and clip the seam allowances, especially at the curves. Turn the collar stand right sides out and press. Press the final edge of the inner collar stand under to just cover the neck seam line. Glue, pin or hand baste in place.
14. Top stitch the collar stand in place from the right side of the shirt to close the final neck seam.
Here’s a Sneak Peek Inside Issue 7 … I hope it inspires you to take your sewing further than you ever dreamed possible!
Just TWO more sleeps till Issue 7 hits the virtual shelves.
To celebrate the release of Issue 7, a fantastic group of bloggers have come together to share what they’ve been sewing up from this issue!
Follow along on our blog tour to read their stories and be inspired.
I can’t wait to see what YOU sew from this Issue!
Follow the blog tour using the links below;
- Wednesday 13th May 2015 – Molly and Mama and pen, seb & rox and From a Box
- Thursday 14th May 2015 – Handmade Boy
- Friday 15th May 2015 – The Toffee Tree and Horris and Deedle
- Saturday 16th may 2015 – Sewvolution and FABulous Home Sewn
- Sunday 17th May 2015 – Sew Today, Clean Tomorrow and Sprouting JubeJube
- Monday 18th May 2015 – Sew Happily Ever After and Big Stitches, little stitches and Made By Sara
- Tuesday 19th May 2015 – Phat Quarters Blog and Hibbadoray
- Wednesday 20th May 2015 – Mabey She Made It and Blue Wren Handmade