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I have a bit of an obsession with welt pockets, so when I was considering what I should do to jazz up my big little nephews Bonfire Jacket, welt pockets seemed to be the obvious choice!
Step 1: Decide on the size of your welt pocket and welt pocket opening & cut your Welt Pocket Facing and Welt Pocket Lining Piece.
I used the welt pocket pattern pieces from the Twist Shift – so my welt pocket facing was 12cm (4 3/4″) tall and 12cm (4 3/4″) wide. My welt pocket lining was 10cm (4″) tall and 12cm (4 3/4″) wide.
If you prefer pattern pieces rather than measurements you can download the Welt Pocket Pattern Pieces HERE-> Welt Pocket Pattern Piece
Step 2: Mark your stitching line on the wrong side of the welt pocket facing.
My stitching line is centred, 2cm (3/4″) from the top. It is 1cm (3/8″) wide and 9cm (3 1/2″) long.
I cut a hole in my pattern piece to make it easier to draw the stitching line on my fabric.
Step 3: Decide on your pocket placement and pin the welt pocket facing, right sides together, to your jacket front pieces.
Step 4: Sew along the stitching line you marked on the wrong side of your welt pocket facing.
Step 5: Cut a strip of interfacing 11cm (4 1/4″) wide and 3cm (1 1/4″) long and attach over the stitching on the wrong side of the jacket front pieces.
Step 6: Cut the welt pocket opening.
You’re going to cut in the same shape as the dotted line marked on the welt pocket facing pattern piece.
Step 7: Push the welt pocket facing through the hole to the wrong side of the front jacket piece.
Step 8: Press it flat.
Step 9: Fold up the bottom of the welt pocket facing so that it covers the opening & press then pin in place.
I find it easiest to first fold it completely up over the opening and press and then fold it back down to cover the opening.
Step 10: Working from the right side of the jacket, sew around the welt pocket opening with your stitches on the jacket piece, catching the welt pocket facing from behind.
Step 11: Working from the wrong side of the jacket, lay the Welt Pocket Lining over the top of the Welt Pocket Facing (right sides together). Pin then sew around the edges, taking care NOT to pin or overlock through the jacket front.
I simply can’t wait to see my niece and nephews in these jackets. While I was making them I thought of a few other things I’d like to try. If you’ve got some Bonfire Jacket “Pattern Hacks”or other hacks you’d like to share be sure to get in touch!
WELT POCKET VARIATIONS:
1) To make a fake welt pocket: Follow the steps as above up step 1-9. Then pin the welt pocket lining over the welt pocket facing right sides together. Working from the right side of the jacket, sew around the welt pocket opening with your stitches on the jacket piece, catching both the welt pocket facing and welt pocket lining. Trim back the welt pocket facing and welt pocket lining.
2) To make a different shape welt opening: Cut a different shaped opening then follow the steps as above. I considered making skateboard shaped welt pockets but then I realised that with the busy-ness of the fabric it’d be lost!
When he was little my brother LOVED dinosaurs. I’m hoping his son is the same. Isn’t this just the cutest knit fabric!!!
… now getting back on track – for my littlest nephews Bonfire Jacket I decided to add an opening zip.
If you don’t have the Bonfire Jacket you could definitely use these same steps to change the opening of a different jacket from snaps to zips. If you’d like to read a little more about changing the openings on a pattern, be sure to check out Toni from Bobbin & Co’s article in Issue 6.
Last year when I was working on the Bonfire Jacket pattern for Issue 5 I brought the cutest knit fabrics to make jackets for my niece and nephews … but it’s 6 months later and they’re still not sewn! Since its just a couple of weeks till we go to visit them (& even better its actually jacket weather now!) I decided to hop to it and sew these jackets up!
My niece is very “into” hoods at the moment so for my niece’s jacket I decided to add a hood. The lack of a hood was Kt’s main complaint about the Bonfire Jacket while I was testing it … every sample I got her to try on she asked where the hood was!
In case you have a little one who loves hoods too, here’s a “how to” for adding a hood to your Bonfire Jacket. You could of course follow these tips for a different jacket pattern.
Step 1 – Choose/Make a Hood Pattern
To add a hood to your Bonfire Jacket you’ll either need a pattern for a hood or a hood on an existing garment that you can trace to make a hood piece.
I used the hood from the Serger Pepper One Cardigan (from Issue 6), but you could definitely use a different pattern or follow this excellent blog post by Once Upon a Sewing Machine for using a hood on an existing garment to make your hood piece -> HERE
Step 2 – Measure the Jacket Neckline
Either way, because the neckline the hood was drafted to fit and the neckline of the Bonfire Jacket may be different, the first thing you need to do is measure the neckline of the Bonfire Jacket so that you can choose the right size hood.
I have this very handy bendy ruler that I used but you could always use a tape-measure instead. Remember to take off the shoulder seam allowances. I want this hood to finish at the centre front so that it will meet in the middle when the top button is done up, so I finished measuring 20mm (3/4″) from the centre front (ie. 6mm (1/4″) seam allowance + 15mm (5/8″). If you’d like your hood placement to be different then measure where you’d like it to go.
Using your measurement of the Bonfire Neckline choose the hood pattern piece with the closest neckline. Go slightly bigger if it doesn’t match exactly you can always trim it down a little or put a small “tuck”in the hood at the shoulders.
Step 3 – Sew your hood and ready your jacket
Sew your hood till it is complete. Sew your Bonfire Jacket up till the point where you would usually add the collar.
Step 4 – Pin your hood to the jacket
Pin the hood to the jacket (right side of the hood facing right side of the jacket). I started pinning at the centre back.
Step 5 – Baste the hood to the jacket.
Step 6 – Lay the facing over the top and pin then sew together.
Step 7 – Complete your jacket as per the pattern.
When I finished this jacket I had the cutest idea! I wish I’d thought to add Bunny Ears to the hood like Michelle from The Toffee Tree did with her “Furry Friends” hoods! …. I might just have to make a bunny eared Barbie coat to take with me for my nieces doll instead!
Today on the blog we have Jessica from Flosstyle who contributed the Jukebox Duet Pattern
to Issue 7. Jessica is sharing with us a way to keep the cowl on your Jukebox Rhythm Version looking its best!
- Stand cowl up and tack top of cowl to just below seam at the cowl join.
- Stand cowl up at front and tack one side 3/4 way up to base. Repeat on the other side.
- Rest cowl, around neckline and tack down at shoulder seam on both sides.
- Fold or flatten at front when wearing.
We’re having our first #Love2SewOT Competition between now & 8th July. It’s a great excuse to try something new, have some fun and sew up your One Thimble patterns!
With 4 categories and prizes from 14 businesses
there’s plenty of reasons to come sew with us!
How to Enter:
1. Sew an outfit or project using
- TWO (2) patterns or
- ONE (1) pattern + ONE (1) article or
- TWO (2) articles
from any issue of One Thimble Digital Sewing Magazine as inspiration.
You can choose from the same issue or from two different issues.
You can mash the patterns, adapt them or use them straight.
You can even use more than two patterns/articles if you’re feeling super keen!
- Twist shift from Issue 2 with handmade bias binding using the instructions included in Issue 7.
- Urbanite Pants from Issue 4 with Traveller Tee from Issue 4.
- Sweet Charlotte Quilt from Issue 2 with Down the Rabbit Hole Applique from Issue 7
- My Busy Felt Book from Issue 7 using the hand applique tips from Issue 6
If you’ve got any questions just ask at email@example.com
2. Send a photograph of your finished project and a brief description of your project (including what patterns/articles you used, from which issue and the story behind your project) to firstname.lastname@example.org before 6pm AEST 8th July 2015.
3. Entries will be added to an album on the One Thimble Facebook page & shared on the One Thimble Blog. You can share your finished project on instagram/facebook using the #Love2SewOT (optional).
4. BONUS: WORK IN PROGRESS COMPETITION. Post a picture of your work in progress on instagram or facebook using the #Love2SewOTWIP before 24th June 2015 to enter.
Categories & Prizes
WORK IN PROGRESS PRIZE (entries close 24th June 2015)
- Criteria: Most intriguing WIP
- Prize: Sewline Scissors Gift Pack (RRP: $AUD82.50) donated by BOO! Designs
MOST ORIGINAL PRIZE (entries close 8th July 2015)
- Criteria: Most original or unexpected use of the patterns/articles from One Thimble Digital Sewing Magazine.
MOST INSPIRING PRIZE (entries close 8th July 2015)
- Criteria: Not necessarily the most accomplished project but the one with the most inspiring story.
JUDGES FAVOURITE PRIZE (entries close 8th July 2015)
- Criteria: The project that best reflects One Thimble’s aims.
Conditions of Entry
- Your project must be sewn by you between 10th June and 8th July 2015 using two articles/patterns included in One Thimble Digital Sewing Magazine Issue 1-7 as inspiration.
- By entering you agree that the picture of your project may be shared as part of the promotion for the competition (feel free to watermark your entry).
- You may enter as many times as you like but each entry must be for a new project and must use two articles/patterns included in One Thimble Issue 1-7 as inspiration. Chance plays no part in the competition – entering more than once does not increase your odds of winning.
- Winners will be chosen by the judging panel (Jen Kennedy, Alison Hally and Elaine Brown) using the criteria detailed above.
- Winning entrants will be notified via email to the email address their entry came through from on the 15th July 2015. Except for the #Love2SewOTWIP winner who will be contacted via their social media account on the 26th June 2015. Winning entrants must reply within 72 hours in order to accept their prize or new winners will be chosen.
- Entry is open to Australian and International participants over 18 years.
- The judges decision is final and no further correspondence will be entered into.
- Void where prohibited by law.