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Seeking PATTERN Contributors for Issue 9

Are you keen to submit a pattern to Issue 9 (13th November 2015 release date) of One Thimble Digital Sewing Magazine?

One Thimble Issue 9 Moodboard cover
Submissions are now open!

To make a “pitch” email me for a copy of the “Pitch Inspiration Kit” and then send through your pitch no later than 4th July 2015.  hello@onethimble.com.au

Some patterns can be made to “fit” the theme by fabric choice – so if your idea is independent to a theme please don’t be put off applying.  It easier to choose patterns that will work well together, when I’m looking at all the submission at the same time.

For further details about contributing a pattern to One Thimble check out this page -> HERE

If you have any questions please don’t hesitate to ask.   hello@onethimble.com.au

xJen

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Add welt pockets to your Bonfire Jacket

I have a bit of an obsession with welt pockets, so when I was considering what I should do to jazz up my big little nephews Bonfire Jacket, welt pockets seemed to be the obvious choice!

How to add a welt pocket to your Bonfire Jacket flyer

Step 1:  Decide on the size of your welt pocket and welt pocket opening & cut your Welt Pocket Facing and Welt Pocket Lining Piece.

I used the welt pocket pattern pieces from the Twist Shift – so my welt pocket facing was 12cm (4 3/4″) tall and 12cm (4 3/4″) wide.  My welt pocket lining was 10cm (4″) tall and 12cm (4 3/4″) wide.

Welt Pocket Pattern Piece jpeg

 

If you prefer pattern pieces rather than measurements you can download the Welt Pocket Pattern Pieces HERE-> Welt Pocket Pattern Piece

Step 2: Mark your stitching line on the wrong side of the welt pocket facing.

Mark your stitching line on the WRONG side of the welt pocket piece

My stitching line is centred, 2cm (3/4″) from the top.  It is 1cm (3/8″) wide and 9cm (3 1/2″) long.

I cut a hole in my pattern piece to make it easier to draw the stitching line on my fabric.

Step 3: Decide on your pocket placement and pin the welt pocket facing, right sides together, to your jacket front pieces.

Decide on pocket placement

Step 4: Sew along the stitching line you marked on the wrong side of your welt pocket facing.

Sew along stitching line

Step 5: Cut a strip of interfacing 11cm (4 1/4″) wide and 3cm (1 1/4″) long and attach over the stitching on the wrong side of the jacket front pieces.

Iron on interfacing

Step 6: Cut the welt pocket opening.

Cut welt pocket opening

You’re going to cut in the same shape as the dotted line marked on the welt pocket facing pattern piece.

Step 7: Push the welt pocket facing through the hole to the wrong side of the front jacket piece.

Push welt pocket facing through opening

Step 8: Press it flat.

Press it flat

Step 9: Fold up the bottom of the welt pocket facing so that it covers the opening & press then pin in place.

Fold the welt pocket bottom up to cover the opening

I find it easiest to first fold it completely up over the opening and press and then fold it back down to cover the opening.

Step 10: Working from the right side of the jacket, sew around the welt pocket opening with your stitches on the jacket piece, catching the welt pocket facing from behind.

Topstitch the pocket opening

Step 11: Working from the wrong side of the jacket, lay the Welt Pocket Lining over the top of the Welt Pocket Facing (right sides together).  Pin then sew around the edges, taking care NOT to pin or overlock through the jacket front.

Pin lining then overlock

Completed welt pocket

I simply can’t wait to see my niece and nephews in these jackets.  While I was making them I thought of a few other things I’d like to try.  If you’ve got some Bonfire Jacket “Pattern Hacks”or other hacks you’d like to share be sure to get in touch!

WELT POCKET VARIATIONS:

1) To make a fake welt pocket: Follow the steps as above up step 1-9.  Then pin the welt pocket lining over the welt pocket facing right sides together.  Working from the right side of the jacket, sew around the welt pocket opening with your stitches on the jacket piece, catching both the welt pocket facing and welt pocket lining.  Trim back the welt pocket facing and welt pocket lining.

2) To make a different shape welt opening: Cut a different shaped opening then follow the steps as above.  I considered making skateboard shaped welt pockets but then I realised that with the busy-ness of the fabric it’d be lost!

 

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Add a zip to your Bonfire Jacket

When he was little my brother LOVED dinosaurs.  I’m hoping his son is the same.  Isn’t this just the cutest knit fabric!!!

… now getting back on track – for my littlest nephews Bonfire Jacket I decided to add an opening zip.

If you don’t have the Bonfire Jacket you could definitely use these same steps to change the opening of a different jacket from snaps to zips.  If you’d like to read a little more about changing the openings on a pattern, be sure to check out Toni from Bobbin & Co’s article in Issue 6.

How to add a zip to your Bonfire Jacket flyer

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Add a Hood to your Bonfire Jacket

Last year when I was working on the Bonfire Jacket pattern for Issue 5 I brought the cutest knit fabrics to make jackets for my niece and nephews … but it’s 6 months later and they’re still not sewn! Since its just a couple of weeks till we go to visit them (& even better its actually jacket weather now!) I decided to hop to it and sew these jackets up!

My niece is very “into” hoods at the moment so for my niece’s jacket I decided to add a hood.  The lack of a hood was Kt’s main complaint about the Bonfire Jacket while I was testing it … every sample I got her to try on she asked where the hood was!

In case you have a little one who loves hoods too, here’s a “how to” for adding a hood to your Bonfire Jacket.  You could of course follow these tips for a different jacket pattern.

How to add a hood to your bonfire jacket flyer

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 1 – Choose/Make a Hood Pattern

To add a hood to your Bonfire Jacket you’ll either need a pattern for a hood or a hood on an existing garment that you can trace to make a hood piece.

I used the hood from the Serger Pepper One Cardigan (from Issue 6), but you could definitely use a different pattern or follow this excellent blog post by Once Upon a Sewing Machine for using a hood on an existing garment to make your hood piece -> HERE

Step 2 – Measure the Jacket Neckline

Either way, because the neckline the hood was drafted to fit and the neckline of the Bonfire Jacket may be different, the first thing you need to do is measure the neckline of the Bonfire Jacket so that you can choose the right size hood.

Adding a hood to your Bonfire Jacket - measure the neckline

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have this very handy bendy ruler that I used but you could always use a tape-measure instead.  Remember to take off the shoulder seam allowances.  I want this hood to finish at the centre front so that it will meet in the middle when the top button is done up, so I finished measuring 20mm (3/4″) from the centre front (ie. 6mm (1/4″) seam allowance + 15mm (5/8″).  If you’d like your hood placement to be different then measure where you’d like it to go.

Using your measurement of the Bonfire Neckline choose the hood pattern piece with the closest neckline.  Go slightly bigger if it doesn’t match exactly you can always trim it down a little or put a small “tuck”in the hood at the shoulders.

Step 3 – Sew your hood and ready your jacket

Add a hood to your bonfire jacket - make the hood and start the jacket

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sew your hood till it is complete.  Sew your Bonfire Jacket up till the point where you would usually add the collar.

Step 4 – Pin your hood to the jacket

Attach a hood to your bonfire jacket - pin the hood to the jacket

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pin the hood to the jacket (right side of the hood facing right side of the jacket).  I started pinning at the centre back.

Step 5 – Baste the hood to the jacket.

Step 6 – Lay the facing over the top and pin then sew together.

Attach a hood to your bonfire jacket - pin the facing over the top

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 7 – Complete your jacket as per the pattern.

When I finished this jacket I had the cutest idea! I wish I’d thought to add Bunny Ears to the hood like Michelle from The Toffee Tree did with her “Furry Friends” hoods! …. I might just have to make a bunny eared Barbie coat to take with me for my nieces doll instead!

Hood with bunny ears

 

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Control the cowl! A quick tack to keep your cowl in place.

Today on the blog we have Jessica from Flosstyle who contributed the Jukebox Duet Pattern
to Issue 7.  Jessica is sharing with us a way to keep the cowl on your Jukebox Rhythm Version looking its best!

Control the cowl

Step 1 Control the Cowl    Step 2 Control the Cowl

Step 3 Control the Cowl    Step 4 Control the Cowl

  1. Stand cowl up and tack top of cowl to just below seam at the cowl join.
  2. Stand cowl up at front and tack one side 3/4 way up to base.  Repeat on the other side.
  3. Rest cowl, around neckline and tack down at shoulder seam on both sides.
  4. Fold or flatten at front when wearing.

 

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