welcome To The One Thimble Blog
This week on the blog we have Kate from Horris & Deedle. She’s got a week of applique fun planned for you! Today she’s giving you some free applique templates, tomorrow she’s sharing her tips to take your appliques from ‘almost there’ to unique, on Wednesday she’ll show you how she’s combined freezer paper stenciling with applique with great results and on Thursday we’ll have an interview with Kate right here on the blog!
Bear and Bunny T-shirt Appliques.
Have you ever looked at clothing made with pre-quilted fabric and thought … WOW … I’d love to get some pre-quilted fabric to play with!!!
… and then ended up getting distracted before it made it from your shopping cart to your sewing machine?
If you have, then this blog post is for you!
When I was playing with design ideas for the Marty Hoodie I tried out some ways to pre-quilt knit fabric and retain some stretch, using fabrics I had on hand. This blog post will show you what I did and hopefully inspire you to bring some pre-quilted awesome into your next winter sewing project!
What fabrics to use:
The two fabrics I had, that I thought might be pretty good for this project were fleece (fluffy on both sides) and sweatshirt fleece (fluffy on one side).
- 2 layers of sweatshirt fleece – fluffy sides together
- 1 layer of sweatshirt fleece – fluffy side against a layer of the stretch jersey I was using for my hoodie
- 1 layer of sweatshirt fleece – fluffy side away from a layer of the stretch jersey I was using for my hoodie.
- 1 layer of fleece with a layer of the stretch jersey I was using for my hoodie.
- 1 layer of fleece between two layers of the stretch jersey I was using for my hoodie.
By far my favourite was the layer of fleece with a layer of the stretch jersey I was using for my hoodie. Kt loves that it makes the inside of her kanga pocket fluffy and soft.
I used the same technique for all my combinations. If you’ve got different fabrics to try, I’d still give this method a go.
Practice on scraps of your fabrics. You need to find out whether your pre-quilted fabric will “shrink” after quilting and also how quilting will effect the stretch if you’re needing to retain the stretch. This will help you choose what size pieces to start with.
- Place your layers wrong sides together. If using 3 layers have the fluffiest layer in the middle. You can pin or use wonderclips or basting spray as your would with a regular quilt if you would like. I found that the pieces I was using kind of “stuck” together so I didn’t need to.
- Mark stitching lines with chalk or fading pen on the right side of the jersey. I had my lines about 25mm (1″) apart.
- Increase your stitch length (I increased mine to 4). If you have a walking foot be sure to use it.
- Sew along the centre diagonal first – corner to corner then sew the other lines working from the centre out.
- When you’ve sewn all the lines in one direction turn your fabric around and do the ones that cross them. Again start at the centre and work outwards.
- Cut your pattern piece from your pre-quilted fabric. It might be a good idea to baste around the edges after cutting out your pattern piece.
I’d really love to have a play to see if this same method would work with regular quilting fabrics (with no stretch). I used fleece in my rag quilt (woven fabrics on either side with a layer of fleece in between) and it worked beautifully so I think fleece in the middle should work with woven fabrics also to make woven quilted fabric.
(Side note: I used the Threading Rainbow’s tutorial for making the Rag Quilt from issue 11 to make my Rag Quilt. They also included a tutorial for using rag quilt panels in clothing in this issue – which is well worth a look!)
When researching this blog post, the other tutes I found for DIY pre-quilted fabric, used a layer of batting between two layers of cotton fabric. So if fleece doesn’t give you the result you’re looking for then be sure to give batting a go. If using batting you’d use the same method I have here.
Not long now till you can get your hands on One Thimble Issue 11. If you’d like to look inside One Thimble Issue 11 check out this flipbook!
New to One Thimble and wondering how it works?
One Thimble is a digital sewing magazine (e-zine). It is delivered as a PDF file and you can flip through it like a magazine on your computer or tablet device. Patterns can be printed out on a regular home computer and assembled as you would with a regular PDF pattern.
Purchasing an issue of One Thimble will get you two download links. One is the link to the E-zine – it has the articles at the front and all the patterns and pattern pieces at the back. You can print your pattern pieces from here and also follow the tutorials from here. The second link is to a ZIP file with the stand alone patterns all seperate. Some people prefer to only have a single pattern open when they’re sewing. If that’s you then this is the download you’ll want when sewing.
If you have any other questions just send me through an email to email@example.com
Preparation for this issue started way back in December 2015. With this brief:
“Imagine this . . . You’re in the city on a bleak winters day. Everything is monochrome & dark – black, white, grey, navy. Then out of the corner of your eye you catch a flash of colour, a glimpse into a world of the imagination. Is there a wild jungle, a world of vibrancy and fun around us?
Embrace unexpected fun details in this urban jungle inspired issue – pops of colour, punchy unexpected details, winter, urban secrets, beyond the everyday, i-spy, wild, jungle, animals, contrast hem, fun pockets, reversible features, costumes for everyday wear.”
These are the patterns we came up with after the final cut!
More information about the patterns – including size ranges and fabric requirements will be “revealed” in the coming days!
Issue 11 to be released 13th May 2016
12 PDF Sewing Patterns
How to get your copy:
Join the mailing list or keep an eye on our social media accounts to see when the issue goes life OR
Purchase a subscription and it’ll be automatically emailed to you the day before release!
Hi! I’m Alicia from Felt With Love Designs. I contributed the Pretend Play Adventure Kit pattern to the current issue, the Woodland Creature finger puppet pattern to Issue 6, the Desert Fox Softie pattern to Issue 8, and the Circus Beanbag Toss Game pattern to Issue 9. The last three can all be found in our etsy shop now. Today, I am kicking off the Adventure Kit Sew Along with a few tips on choosing felt and cutting out the pieces. (If this is your first time hearing about it, head over to this post for more info.)
Please note: This post includes affiliate links, as indicated by an asterisk.*
I absolutely love hand-sewing. Don’t get me wrong, I love my machine too. I enjoy sewing my daughter’s clothes and other larger projects. But …
I have an itch to always be doing something. Just ask my husband, it drives him crazy! Hand-sewing satisfies that desire. I do the majority of my felt sewing while I watch my daughter play with her friends at the playground in the afternoon or while I watch a movie with my husband in the evenings. It makes me feel so much less guilty about spending the couple hours watching television (something he loves to do.)
It wasn’t until joining the One Thimble team that I realized not everyone shares my love of hand-sewing. So, Jen and I put together a little impromptu sew-along.
Choosing Your Felt
Before starting your Adventure Kit, you will need to decide what to sew it with. I love hand-sewing with felt because it doesn’t fray and it’s very difficult to mess up.
One Thimble recently interviewed Candice about her felt business and she does a great job explaining the differences between wool felt and acrylic (craft) felt.
For this project, both types of felt will work. When choosing which to use, keep in mind that craft felt will be thinner than wool felt. Wool felt is also much softer than craft felt.
It might help you decide between the types of felt if you choose which colors you would like to work with. In my experience, wool felt is available in a much wider array of colors. I sewed my Adventure Kit from boring grey but let your imagination run wild!
For the sew along, I will be making a more “girly” set, at the request of my daughter. It’s always fun to see ways people think outside the box with their color choices. (I am still in love with the pink, glittery Desert Fox Candice sewed incorporating her glitter felt.)
I strongly suggest using a heavy interfacing on the majority of the pieces for the Adventure Kit, otherwise the toys might turn out a little too flimsy. If you stuff them well, the compass and flashlight do not require interfacing. The magnifying glass needs interfacing in the main body piece and the binoculars need it for both the inner and outer cones. (It is ok to skip the interfacing for the sets of rings on the binoculars and the end piece on the magnifying glass, if you would like.)
You will need a few circles of clear vinyl for the flashlight, magnifying glass, and binoculars. Look around your house for things you might be able to repurpose for this step. I used the clear vinyl from an old pencil pouch. You can also use the little bags that bedding comes packaged in. I highly recommended using several wonder clips* when sewing the vinyl sections to hold things in place while sewing. They do not leave holes in the vinyl the way pins would.
I like to shred my small felt scraps with a rotary cutter and use them for stuffing (this also makes the toys denser and gives them more structure) but, when not using scraps, this* is my favorite stuffing. I would not recommend using scraps inside the binoculars. The binoculars only need to be lightly stuffed. Too much stuffing will crush the inner cone piece.
When hand-sewing, I generally use DMC embroidery floss*. Their floss is soft and doesn’t knot as much, in my experience, as other, less expensive brands (although those are totally fine to use also!) Floss comes in 6 strands. I sew most of my projects using two strands of floss (more if I want a thicker line.) In order to get two strands, I find it easiest to cut a length of thread TWICE as long as I think I will need (does not need to be exact), pull out one of the strands from that length, fold it in half, and thread my needle with the loose ends of the piece of folded thread. When I start sewing, I always thread my needle back through the the loop created by the end, on the backside of the project, instead of knotting it. (Stephanie has a great tutorial for this, if you need a little more guidance.)
Cutting Your Pieces
When cutting felt shapes, I always recommend a pair of sharp scissors. These micro-tip scissors* are my favorite (and I recently learned Fiskars has an awesome lifetime warranty!!) This pattern doesn’t have any super small nooks and crannies to cut so your regular sewing scissors will work fine too. When cutting the rectangles for this pattern, I used my rotary cutter.
Freezer paper* is my absolute most favorite supply/tool for cutting accurately. You can print directly on the freezer paper, saving time from tracing out the pattern, and then iron those pieces to your felt. Cutting is my least favorite step in the sewing process and I am so glad I discovered freezer paper. You can also reuse the pattern pieces 4-5 times. If you need more tips on freezer paper, check out my tutorials here and here.
When cutting your pattern pieces, do not forget to measure and cut the rectangles listed on the template. Pattern pieces are not included for those 4 pieces.
To cut the vinyl circles, I place the vinyl over the template (freezer paper or regular – it’s the same process no matter how you printed it) and trace the circle with a sharpie. Cut around the circle and then wipe the ink right off.
Be sure to join the One Thimble Sewing Enthusiasts group on Facebook. We will continue the sew along updates, starting tomorrow with the compass!
If you have any other questions please don’t hesitate to ask!