welcome To The One Thimble Blog
Today we have a very exciting guest blogger! Mandy Murray is here to share her tutorial for making a Liberty Rainbow Cushion.
Mandy Murray aims to inspire the younger generation to sew with fun and quirky designs! Working for Blessington, which is a major distributor of sewing machines and accessories, including notable brands Singer, Husqvarna Viking, PFAFF, Handi Quilter and AccuQuilt. She fulfils a career creating unique and innovative projects to share with and inspire others to sew! Mandy created this super cute Liberty Rainbow Cushion on a Singer sewing machine. From home décor and clothing construction, to embroidery and quilting, Singer is dedicated to helping people express their creativity!
o 40cm | 16” white cotton fabric
o (7) rainbow fat eighths (I used a variety of liberty prints)
o (7) rainbow embroidery threads
o White construction thread
o 40cm | 16” fusible web
o Tear away
From the white cotton fabric
o Cut (2) front & back pattern pieces
o Cut (1) 3 ½” x 43”
Download your pattern pieces here -> A3 Singer Liberty Rainbow Cushion Pattern Pieces
OR -> A4 & letter Singer Liberty Cushion Pattern Pieces
1. The technique used to construct the rainbow is basic fusible appliqué. Trace the appliqué pieces onto the paper side of the fusible web.
2. Cut around the outside of the shapes approximately ¼” from the line.
3. Iron these shapes onto the wrong side of the rainbow fabrics (refer to diagram 1).
4. Cut each shape out along the line.
5. Lay (1) front pattern piece onto an ironing board (right side facing up). Remove the paper backing from each of the appliqué pieces and position on top of the front pattern piece (refer to diagram 2).
6. Place a piece of tear away behind the rainbow.
7. Thread your machine with co-ordinating thread and select different decorative stitches. Sew down the middle where each colour of the rainbow joins (refer to diagram 3 & 4). Satin style decorative stitches work best for covering the raw edges!
Note: There is no need to stitch around the outer red section of the rainbow as this will be in the seam allowance once sewn together!
8.Gently remove the tear away from the back and trim threads (refer to diagram 5).
9. Mark the centre base of the rainbow and pin the rectangle at this point (right sides together).
Note: Leave a half inch seam allowance to join the short ends later.
10. Start sewing using a 2mm triple stitch with a 3/8” seam allowance.
Note: Stop approximately 3/8” from the corners (ensure your needle is down) and cut a slit in the rectangle. Pivot to continue sewing around the rainbow (refer to diagram 6).
11. Once you have sewn back to the centre point, match the short ends of the rectangle and sew together creating a complete tube. Press the seam open.
12. Mark the centre base of the back pattern piece and match up with the seam of the rectangle. Pin and begin sewing as per step 9, however leave a 3” gap in the base.
13. Clip the curves and turn the right way out through the hole you left at the bottom.
14. Stuff your rainbow cushion firmly and then hand sew the hole closed.
Congratulations on finishing your Liberty Rainbow Cushion!
I originally sewed this dress while testing the pattern last February, when winter was at its peak in Canada! Can you tell that I was dreaming of summer? Gold fabrics, gold buttons, glitter gold heat transfer and gold sequins! The oversize patch pocket of the design was the perfect scale for a little applique fun. I did cheetah pockets on this dress, but really, the possibilities are infinite!
Fabrics and Supplies: These are the fabrics that I used, but you could substitute all the fabrics to create something completely different and just as fun!
- You will need all the regular free motion applique supplies:
- Heat n’ Bond Light (or a sewable spray adhesive such as 505. If you decide not to use Heat n’ Bond Light, you will need to put Fray Check to keep the raw edges from fraying).
- Free motion foot
- Medium weight embroidery stabilizer
- Thread! Basically, free motion sewing is like drawing with thread on a piece of fabric. You will want to choose a color of thread that won’t get lost in the details. Black is the most common used thread color because it resembles a real drawing.
- Cheetah print Fabric: I used Cheetah Gold Standard/ Simply Sterling designed by Maria Kalinoieski for Kanvas with ©Bernatex, but any cheetah print will do.
- Lining Fabric: Michael Miller Cotton Couture in Gold
- Contrast Fabrics: scraps of Michael Miller Cotton Couture in White and Black
- Nose: a scrap of Glitter Iron-on (I used Cricut, but any glitter heat transfer material will do). Alternately, you could also use a piece of fabric for the nose applique.
- Sequins, seed beads and a beading needle
Download your pocket/applique pattern pieces HERE -> Hoya Dress Cheetah Pocket Hack by Élégantine
The pocket pattern pieces (head and ear) include a ¼ inch seam allowance. The applique templates don’t include a seam allowance and are intended that way.
You will cut:
- 2x Heads (1 x main fabric and 1 x lining fabric)
- 2x pairs of ears, mirrored (2 x main fabric and 2 x lining fabric)
- 1x Jowls
- 1x nose
- 2x Eye whites
- 2x Dark of eyes
Now let’s get started!
Step 1: Iron all the appliques on the main fabric pocket piece to create a Cheetah Face. Alternatively, you could use a sewable spray adhesive.
Step2. Transfer the mouth detail on the face with an erasable fabric marker or chalk. Free motion sew on all the inner details and inner outlines making sure to leave an ¼ inch blank space all around for the seam allowance.
Step 3. Pin both pairs of ears with the ears lining right sides together and stitch using a ¼ seam allowance. Clip the curve use pinking shears all around the ears.
Step 4. Turn right side out and press.
Step 5. Make a little snip of about 1/8” long on the raw edges of the ears. This will help match the curve of the rounded pocket and the ears will lay flat once the pocket is assembled.
Step 6. Fold the pocket piece in half and press to mark the center. On the top of the head, 1 inch from each side of the crease, align the raw edges of the ears right side to right side with the head. Spread the ears following the curve on the head using the little snips at the base of the ears. Stitch using a ¼ seam allowance.
Step 7. Place the pocket lining on top, right side to right side, and stitch all around leaving a 1.5 inch gap in the bottom to turn it the right way out.
Step 8. Clip into the seam allowance all around the pocket (leaving the unstitched part unclipped) or use pinking shears.
Step 9. Turn the pocket right side out.
Step 10. Fold the 1.5 inch opening inside following the curve of the pocket and press.
Step 11. Topstitch the top of the pocket starting in the middle of an ear to the middle of the other one.
Step 12. Pin the head on the side seam of the skirt and finish topstitching all around the pocket.
Step 13. Sequins: Starting at the base of an ear, pull your thread through the back, sew on a sequin from the back, through a seed bead, back into the sequin and into the fabric. The seed bead will hold the sequin in place on the ear. Continue to sew sequins every ¼ inch this way all around the ear.
Note: Step 12 shows a photo of the pocket with the sequins already sewn on. But the sequins were sewed after topstitching. I did not sew a complete new garment for this tutorial since the dress still fits my daughter perfectly! I used the finished garment for some photos.
Sequins are of course optional, but they add a little glam to the garment that my kid loves… and let’s face it, I love it too!!
Valerie from Élégantine!
Follow me and let me inspire you:
Instagram – https://www.instagram.com/valerie_dufort/?hl=en
Blog – http://www.elegantine.com/
She is a a lover of whimsy and pink and anything that inspires fun and imagination. She has two girls who help inspire her work and drawings.
Tell me a little about your business and how you got into designing/sewing.
I started StitchART In August of 2015. I fell in love with free motion applique through one thimble issue 7 and I had such a hard time finding free motion applique patterns on the market I decided to put my years of art lessons to use and make my own designs! I had the programs on my computer already for turning my sketches into proper patterns and so I went for it. Hope and a dream! Sewing I began in 2010 when I had my first daughter. I wanted adorable one of a kind outfits for her that I saw while browsing the internet to relieve the bordem of being able to do nothing while nursing and her napping (she was one of those who would wake up and screech if I moved more than my wrist).
What/where/who inspires you?
Oh my…this one is next to impossible to answer… My goofy kids and their quirky selves ALWAYS inspire me! Otherwise though it completely depends on my mood haha. I do love the art world for inspiration!
What’s your favourite pattern/ thing you have sewn? What you are working on now?
My favourite personal pattern is Mollly the Mermaid, I have LOOOVED mermaids since my dad took me to see the Little Mermaid in the theaters when it came out all those years ago. Currently I’m working on my artwork, I’m making myself work on faces – a great weak point for me is the nose…. Sewing wise I’m working on some sewing for fabric tours as I’m in 2 coming up, kid projects. My personal favourite sew is the SisBoom Angie and kids pattern favourite is the Sis Boom Sally.
What’s something people might not know about you?
I seem to collect creative hobbies…. I took private art lessons from a university art professor all through my highschool years and painting on canvas is the regular and go to hobby of mine besides sewing/embroidery. But I also took a few years of pottery and even made felt flower wedding boquets! I’m trying to be more focused in my hobbies…. but it is SOOOOO hard for me!
Hi there! It’s Ajaire again and I’m back today with an add-on for the Crossover Flounce Dress I designed for Issue 11. Those flounces were begging to be a stand-alone skirt so I have added a waistband, which along with the flounce pieces from the original pattern (available in Issue 11 here or on its own here) make a fun, twirly, reversible skirt!
You can download the waistband pattern pieces and the elastic measurement chart (combined as one pdf) here and then come back and follow the tutorial below to assemble the skirt. Use the same instructions for printing as for the main Crossover Flounce Dress pattern.
Begin by gathering the pieces you’ll need:
Four flounce pieces from the original pattern (two mirrored from each fabric)
Two front waistbands (one of each fabric)
Two back waistbands (one of each fabric)
3/4″ (18mm) wide elastic (see chart in the waistband pdf for length)
Stitch the front and back waistbands together at the sides with the 3/8″ (1cm) seam allowance. This is the seam allowance for the entire tutorial unless noted. Do the same for the reverse fabric front and back waistbands. the main fabric is the floral and the reverse fabric is the green for this tutorial
Press the seams open and then press up 1/4″ (6mm) to the wrong side along the bottom edge of the reverse fabric only.
With right sides together, pin the main and reverse waistbands together along the top edge, matching centers and side seams.
Stitch the seam.
Flip open so the wrong sides are up and press the seam open. This will help the top of the waistband lay flat when the layers are pressed together.
Now flip the reverse fabric down over the main fabric with wrong sides together and press that top seam well. The reverse fabric side will still have that 1/4″ (6mm) folded up to the wrong side.
And here is what the main side looks like:
Now assemble the flounces according to the Crossover Flounce Dress pattern and pin the centers and sides together. Make sure one flounce has the short side and one flounce has the long side at each side.
Bring the waistband to the prepared flounces and line up the main fabric lower edge with the main fabric flounces with right sides facing.
Pin all the way around, making sure to match the centers and side seams of the waistband with the center and side markings on the flounces.
Stitch through all the layers, making sure to shift the flounces around a bit while sewing so nothing extra gets caught in the seam.
Flip the skirt and waistband with the reverse fabric side out and press the seam up toward the waistband.
Fold the waistband down with the previously folded over edge covering the seam and press well.
Cut the elastic to the length in the chart and overlap the ends by 1″ (2.5cm), forming a loop. Stitch the overlap together to secure.
Pull the reverse fabric up and put the elastic loop around the main fabric waistband.
To create a channel for the elastic, push the elastic up to the top edge of the waistband and begin folding the reverse fabric back down over it. Pin the fabric layers only and not through the elastic, just below where the elastic rests.
Continue tucking the elastic up, folding over, and pinning all the way around. The elastic will slide through as you are pinning, which is what you want to happen.
This is what it will look like with everything pinned:
Stitch about 1″ (2.5cm) away from the top edge, encasing the elastic, but taking care not to stitch over the elastic, allowing the elastic to slide through as you go around.
Pin the folded edge down, covering the lower waistband seam.
Stitch from the main side (floral side) along the waistband seam (in the ditch in quilting terms), pulling pins and making sure to catch the folded over edge of the reverse side as you stitch. Take care to use a coordinating bobbin thread!
Your reversible Crossover Flounce Skirt is complete!
It has the same amazing twirl factor that the original dress has so it’s sure to be a hit with your girl! It was super hot out when we took these pics, so never mind the sour face on my girl, hehe. She LOVES it!
You can find me around the web through the following:
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Shop – http://www.callajaire.com/p/shop.html