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I have a bit of an obsession with welt pockets, so when I was considering what I should do to jazz up my big little nephews Bonfire Jacket, welt pockets seemed to be the obvious choice!
Step 1: Decide on the size of your welt pocket and welt pocket opening & cut your Welt Pocket Facing and Welt Pocket Lining Piece.
I used the welt pocket pattern pieces from the Twist Shift – so my welt pocket facing was 12cm (4 3/4″) tall and 12cm (4 3/4″) wide. My welt pocket lining was 10cm (4″) tall and 12cm (4 3/4″) wide.
If you prefer pattern pieces rather than measurements you can download the Welt Pocket Pattern Pieces HERE-> Welt Pocket Pattern Piece
Step 2: Mark your stitching line on the wrong side of the welt pocket facing.
My stitching line is centred, 2cm (3/4″) from the top. It is 1cm (3/8″) wide and 9cm (3 1/2″) long.
I cut a hole in my pattern piece to make it easier to draw the stitching line on my fabric.
Step 3: Decide on your pocket placement and pin the welt pocket facing, right sides together, to your jacket front pieces.
Step 4: Sew along the stitching line you marked on the wrong side of your welt pocket facing.
Step 5: Cut a strip of interfacing 11cm (4 1/4″) wide and 3cm (1 1/4″) long and attach over the stitching on the wrong side of the jacket front pieces.
Step 6: Cut the welt pocket opening.
You’re going to cut in the same shape as the dotted line marked on the welt pocket facing pattern piece.
Step 7: Push the welt pocket facing through the hole to the wrong side of the front jacket piece.
Step 8: Press it flat.
Step 9: Fold up the bottom of the welt pocket facing so that it covers the opening & press then pin in place.
I find it easiest to first fold it completely up over the opening and press and then fold it back down to cover the opening.
Step 10: Working from the right side of the jacket, sew around the welt pocket opening with your stitches on the jacket piece, catching the welt pocket facing from behind.
Step 11: Working from the wrong side of the jacket, lay the Welt Pocket Lining over the top of the Welt Pocket Facing (right sides together). Pin then sew around the edges, taking care NOT to pin or overlock through the jacket front.
I simply can’t wait to see my niece and nephews in these jackets. While I was making them I thought of a few other things I’d like to try. If you’ve got some Bonfire Jacket “Pattern Hacks”or other hacks you’d like to share be sure to get in touch!
WELT POCKET VARIATIONS:
1) To make a fake welt pocket: Follow the steps as above up step 1-9. Then pin the welt pocket lining over the welt pocket facing right sides together. Working from the right side of the jacket, sew around the welt pocket opening with your stitches on the jacket piece, catching both the welt pocket facing and welt pocket lining. Trim back the welt pocket facing and welt pocket lining.
2) To make a different shape welt opening: Cut a different shaped opening then follow the steps as above. I considered making skateboard shaped welt pockets but then I realised that with the busy-ness of the fabric it’d be lost!