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Here in North Queensland we don’t really get a winter. I’ve heard our seasons described as hot and damn hot. I am not a fan of cold weather so this works out perfect for me, but it does mean that sometimes I end up designing winter wear that’s not super practical in colder areas.
The Marty Hoodie is the perfect weight for winter weather here in Cairns, but if you’re from further south (or further North in you’re in the Northern Hemisphere) you might be wishing that the cuffs and hem were ribbed to help keep the cold weather out.
Today’s blog post will show you how to add ribbing to the cuffs and hem of your Marty Hoodie.
With special thanks to Lina from Frokenhandig for letting me use images of her hoodie in this post.
How to add ribbing to your Marty Hoodie.
Step 1 – Adjust the pattern pieces
First up you’re going to need to adjust your sleeve, front and back pattern pieces to allow for the ribbing. You’ll need to take some length off these pieces to account for the ribbing length. To figure out how much to take off you should first decide how long you’re going to make your ribbing. I used the ribbing measurements from the Bonfire Jacket as my starting point.
- For size 1-2 I would like my ribbing to be 4cm (1 5/8″) long.
- For size 3-5 I would like my ribbing to be 5cm (2″) long
- For size 6-8 I would like my ribbing to be 6cm ( 2 3/8″) long
- For size 9-12 I would like my ribbing to be 7cm ( 2 3/4″) long
I will therefore take this amount + 0.6cm (1/4) for seam allowance off the bottom of my sleeve pattern pieces, and from my back and front pieces. If you’d like the ribbing on your cuffs and your hem to be different lengths that is fine, you’ll just need to work out what amount to take off the cuffs and off the front/back pieces. The Marty sleeves are quite long so you might choose to take more or less off depending on the look you’re looking for. example for size 8 I will take 6.6cm off the length of my arm pieces
Step 2 – Work out how much ribbing to use.
The ribbing is folded in half when attached to the hoodie and you need to include a seam allowance on each side of the ribbing. Therefore using the example above for a size 8 I will cut my ribbing 13.2cm (5 1/8″) long. This will give me a 6cm (2 3/8″) ribbing cuff/hem when attached.
Figuring out the ribbing width is going to take a bit of fiddling to get right. Depending on the stretchiness of your ribbing and the stretchiness of your main fabric you might need to cut your ribbing longer or shorter than me. As a general rule you want your ribbing to be about 3/4 to 2/3 of the length of the hem you’re sewing it to. Measure your pattern piece hem, take out the seam allowance and go from there.
Step 3 – Attach your ribbing to your hoodie
Fold your ribbing in half widthwise, right sides together and sew the sides together so that you have a ribbing circle.
Fold in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, matching raw edges, with the overlocking on the inside.
Pin in quarters your ribbing and the hem.
Match the raw edges with the ribbing on the outside.
Sew together, right sides together with the ribbing on top, stretching the ribbing so that the quarter marks match. If you find this tricky or are worried about pins near your overlocker, baste on your sewing machine first.
Fold the ribbing downwards. Press the seam upwards.
Optionally you can topstitch the seam in place with your stitches on the hoodie using a twin needle.
Step 4 – Repeat
Repeat step 3 for the second cuff and the hem.
Your hoodie with ribbing is complete!
If you add ribbing to your Marty Hoodie I’d love to see! Come show me in the One Thimble Sewing Enthusiasts group on Facebook or tag me on Instagram or comment below. I love to see what you create!