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Hood Creature Pocket Feature

Hello from Canada and Jeanine from StitchART!
For today’s tutorial I have a fun way to extend the use of the hood creatures pattern found in issue 11.
We are going to make pockets!! These fun creature pockets are a fun way to add a little peek of fun!
You are going to prep the applique pieces as normal. except for the outer circle. That you will cut 2 of. Also I drew a simple ear shape and cut 4 of those so the pocket would have ears.
Iron your free motion applique pieces to one of your main pocket pieces and free motion applique around the pieces with your sheet of stabilizer underneath. Then sew around the ear pieces and turn.
Baste the ears in place. I put them on the outerish edges as I wanted the pocket opening between the ears.
Place the other pocket piece on top of the appliqued front and sew around leaving a space to open to turn.
Iron the pocket nice and tidy around the edges and tuck in the seam allowance for the opening.
Topstitch the opening closed – this is your pocket top.
Then place where you want the pocket to go and sew around the pocket (except where you topstitched)
Pocket perfect and ready to roll!
(pocket placed on sisboom leighanna peasant)
This same technique works great on square pockets too! The LLK Hoya which is also in issue 11 would be a perfect dress to try this on!


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Interview with Jeanine from StitchART

Jeanine Thomlinson - StitcART Jeanine is a Canadian designer who loves free motion appliqué, sewing pretty things, mermaids, and dabbling in fabric design!
She is a a lover of whimsy and pink and anything that inspires fun and imagination. She has two girls who help inspire her work and drawings.


 Tell me a little about your business and how you got into designing/sewing.

I started StitchART In August of 2015. I fell in love with free motion applique through one thimble issue 7 and I had such a hard time finding free motion applique patterns on the market I decided to put my years of art lessons to use and make my own designs! I had the programs on my computer already for turning my sketches into proper patterns and so I went for it. Hope and a dream! Sewing I began in 2010 when I had my first daughter. I wanted adorable one of a kind outfits for her that I saw while browsing the internet to relieve the bordem of being able to do nothing while nursing and her napping (she was one of those who would wake up and screech if I moved more than my wrist).

What/where/who inspires you?

Oh my…this one is next to impossible to answer… My goofy kids and their quirky selves ALWAYS inspire me! Otherwise though it completely depends on my mood haha.  I do love the art world for inspiration!


What’s your best tip for people getting started with sewing?
Just practice. Even if you are not sewing anything at all you can learn so much about your machine and stitches by simply sewing scraps together. Do not fear your machine, and don’t count yourself out just because there are people who seem so advanced. For me that was the hardest part, I wanted to sew amazing things like I had pictured in my head before I even knew how to thread my machine. I forced myself to sew everyday and joined a every day sewing group to keep myself accountable and practicing and learning and it was the best desicion I made for learning the craft.

What’s your favourite pattern/ thing you have sewn? What you are working on now?

My favourite personal pattern is Mollly the Mermaid, I have LOOOVED mermaids since my dad took me to see the Little Mermaid in the theaters when it came out all those years ago. Currently I’m working on my artwork, I’m making myself work on faces – a great weak point for me is the nose…. Sewing wise I’m working on some sewing for fabric tours as I’m in 2 coming up, kid projects. My personal favourite sew is the SisBoom Angie and kids pattern favourite is the Sis Boom Sally.



What’s something people might not know about you?

I seem to collect creative hobbies…. I took private art lessons from a university art professor all through my highschool years and painting on canvas is the regular and go to hobby of mine besides sewing/embroidery. But I also took a few years of pottery and even made felt flower wedding boquets! I’m trying to be more focused in my hobbies…. but it is SOOOOO hard for me!



Hood Creatures FMA Stand Alone Cover You can purchase Jen’s pattern for the Hood Creatures FMA as a single PDF HERE or visit her website to see more of her work HERE or purchase Issue 11 which contains this pattern HERE.


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Pattern Hack the Crossover Flounce Dress to a skirt

Hi there!  It’s Ajaire again and I’m back today with an add-on for the Crossover Flounce Dress I designed for Issue 11.  Those flounces were begging to be a stand-alone skirt so I have added a waistband, which along with the flounce pieces from the original pattern (available in Issue 11 here or on its own here) make a fun, twirly, reversible skirt!

You can download the waistband pattern pieces and the elastic measurement chart (combined as one pdf) here and then come back and follow the tutorial below to assemble the skirt.  Use the same instructions for printing as for the main Crossover Flounce Dress pattern.

Begin by gathering the pieces you’ll need:

Four flounce pieces from the original pattern (two mirrored from each fabric)
Two front waistbands (one of each fabric)
Two back waistbands (one of each fabric)
3/4″ (18mm) wide elastic (see chart in the waistband pdf for length)

Stitch the front and back waistbands together at the sides with the 3/8″ (1cm) seam allowance.  This is the seam allowance for the entire tutorial unless noted.  Do the same for the reverse fabric front and back waistbands.  the main fabric is the floral and the reverse fabric is the green for this tutorial

Press the seams open and then press up 1/4″ (6mm) to the wrong side along the bottom edge of the reverse fabric only.

With right sides together, pin the main and reverse waistbands together along the top edge, matching centers and side seams.

Stitch the seam.

Flip open so the wrong sides are up and press the seam open.  This will help the top of the waistband lay flat when the layers are pressed together.

Now flip the reverse fabric down over the main fabric with wrong sides together and press that top seam well.  The reverse fabric side will still have that 1/4″ (6mm) folded up to the wrong side.

And here is what the main side looks like:

Now assemble the flounces according to the Crossover Flounce Dress pattern and pin the centers and sides together.  Make sure one flounce has the short side and one flounce has the long side at each side.

Bring the waistband to the prepared flounces and line up the main fabric lower edge with the main fabric flounces with right sides facing.

Pin all the way around, making sure to match the centers and side seams of the waistband with the center and side markings on the flounces.

Stitch through all the layers, making sure to shift the flounces around a bit while sewing so nothing extra gets caught in the seam.

Flip the skirt and waistband with the reverse fabric side out and press the seam up toward the waistband.

Fold the waistband down with the previously folded over edge covering the seam and press well.

Cut the elastic to the length in the chart and overlap the ends by 1″ (2.5cm), forming a loop.  Stitch the overlap together to secure.

Pull the reverse fabric up and put the elastic loop around the main fabric waistband.

To create a channel for the elastic, push the elastic up to the top edge of the waistband and begin folding the reverse fabric back down over it.  Pin the fabric layers only and not through the elastic, just below where the elastic rests.

Continue tucking the elastic up, folding over, and pinning all the way around.  The elastic will slide through as you are pinning, which is what you want to happen.

This is what it will look like with everything pinned:

Stitch about 1″ (2.5cm) away from the top edge, encasing the elastic, but taking care not to stitch over the elastic, allowing the elastic to slide through as you go around.

Pin the folded edge down, covering the lower waistband seam.

Stitch from the main side (floral side) along the waistband seam (in the ditch in quilting terms), pulling pins and making sure to catch the folded over edge of the reverse side as you stitch.  Take care to use a coordinating bobbin thread!

Your reversible Crossover Flounce Skirt is complete!

It has the same amazing twirl factor that the original dress has so it’s sure to be a hit with your girl!  It was super hot out when we took these pics, so never mind the sour face on my girl, hehe.  She LOVES it!

Ajaire Parello
Call Ajaire

You can find me around the web through the following:
Facebook –
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Shop –

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Elastic Keyhole Closure

I’m Ajaire from Designs by Call Ajaire (DbCA) and I have two things to share with you One Thimble fans this week.  The first is a favorite of mine!  Today, let me show you how to make the optional Elastic Keyhole Closure from my Crossover Flounce Dress available in Issue 11.

My girl is forever getting her hair caught in the button on the back of her dresses.  I love a good button, but right there at the back neckline her hair always gets caught.  Thus I came up with this buttonless keyhole closure.  All you need is a little bit of 1/4″ (6mm) elastic and you can use this technique on pretty much any keyhole-type closure in lieu of a button and loop.

To begin, cut a small keyhole opening at the main and lining center back pieces.  Be sure to think about seam allowance if you’re making your own keyhole.  Fortunately, the Crossover Flounce Dress has this pattern piece included so you don’t have to make one yourself.

Stitch the shoulder seams of the main and the shoulder seams of the lining and press well according to the pattern.

Place the main neckline over the lining neckline with right sides together and pin all the way around the keyhole.

Stitch all the way around the main neckline.  Skip 3/8″ (1cm) down the keyhole, start stitching from the edge until you reach the end of the 3/8″ (1cm) seam allowance, pivot the stitching 90 degrees, and continue stitching around the keyhole, stopping 3/8″ (1cm) from the neckline stitches on the other side, pivoting the stitches to run through the seam allowance at 90 degrees.  This step is creating a channel through which the elastic will run.

Trim the seam allowance except for the 3/8″ (1cm) area around the channel, clipping to the stitching at the 90 degree corners of the keyhole.

Turn the necklines so they are wrong sides together and press well.  Take care not to push the channel out of the openings on either side of the keyhole, but do use a point turner or similar tool to help point the shape of the keyhole.

In the above pic you can see that there is an opening which will fit this flat turning tool.

Take your piece of coordinating 1/4″ (6mm) elastic and attach a safety pin to one end.

Insert the safety pin through one side of the neckline channel.

Pin the elastic in place once the safety pin is pulled through enough to clear the pin.

Once the elastic is pinned you can reach between the layers to remove the safety pin.

Then attach the safety pin to the other end of the elastic.

Run the safety pin through the channel on the other side of the neckline and pull through, leaving as much give on the elastic as necessary to comfortably get the child’s head through.  Pin the elastic in place and remove the safety pin from between the layers.

Topstitch around the keyhole using 1/4″ (6mm) seam allowance and backstitching over the elastic.  Be sure to use coordinating thread for the bobbin if you are making the Crossover Flounce Dress so it can still be reversible.

And now your neckline is complete and you can stretch the opening to fit over the head with ease!  I hope you enjoy this new neckline closure option as much as we do!

Ajaire Parello
Call Ajaire

Cross Over Flounce Dress Stand Alone Cover

Don’t forget to check out the interview with Ajaire from Monday HERE.

You can purchase Ajaire’s pattern for Crossover Flounce Dress as a single PDF HERE or visit her website to see more of her work HERE or purchase Issue 11 which contains this pattern HERE.

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Interview with Ajaire from Designs by Call Ajaire

Ajaire - Designs by Call Ajaire Ajaire has been an avid sewist and crafter for over 25 years. When her daughter was born in 2011 she found an outlet for all her creative ideas and the focus of Call Ajaire shifted to sewing and fashion inspiration for young girls. Though most known for Call Ajaire’s Monthly MashUp series, in 2015 she finally launched her children’s clothing patterns under Designs by Call Ajaire (DbCA). Ajaire has contributed the Crossover flounce dress to Issue 11.

Tell me a little about your business and how you got into designing/sewing.

I’ve always loved making.  I started cross stitching at an early age and hand sewing quickly came next.  I taught myself how to use my mother’s sewing machine in my teens and I never turned back.  In college I learned to knit and crochet, but there’s something about sewing that keeps calling to me.  When my daughter was born I was filled with inspiration which prompted my foray into design.  I spent her early baby years (she just turned five) learning everything I could about fashion design and pattern development.  My blog Call Ajaire has been around since the beginning, but I finally released my first pattern with Designs by Call Ajaire (DbCA) a year ago.  Being a stay at home mother to my girl there isn’t an abundance of time for design so things have trudged along slowly with my first few patterns.  With her going to kindergarten in September I’ll be able to concentrate on DbCA and look forward to seeing the direction it takes.

What/where/who inspires you?

Call Ajaire's Bean

As I mentioned above, my girl is my biggest inspiration.  I make all of her clothes, even down to the boring bits like underwear and socks, and somedays is feels like a blank slate just waiting to be filled in.  Now that she’s getting a little older, it’s so cool to have her feedback and see parts of her style come together in the things I make for her.  I look ahead to what’s available to tweens and teens in the stores these days and I’m thankful to be able to sew for her.  She’ll be able to have modest pieces that are in style, yet age appropriate.  I can see myself concentrating on the pre-teen scene these next few years.

What’s something people might not know about you?

How to pronounce Ajaire, haha.  You can check out this somewhat old (painful for me to watch!) video in which I pronounce my name in the first few seconds.

What’s your best tip for people getting started with sewing?

Be kind to yourself.  Sewing is a skill that can be honed just like anything else.  You can produce something beautiful the first time, but if you don’t make sure you keep trying.  If you picked up the guitar and couldn’t play it perfectly the first time would you be surprised?  Everything takes practice in order to improve.  People often say that they can’t sew or that they wish they could sew as quickly or well as I do when they see my girl’s clothes.  But sewing is something I do almost every single morning.  Imagine what you could do if you practiced something at least an hour each day.

What’s your favorite pattern/thing you have sewn? What are you working on now?

Call Ajaire Make Your Own Fabric main

My favorite thing is probably this dress I made with fabric I created myself for Project Run & Play season 9.  Look out for an article in OT Issue 12 on how to create fabric like this with scraps.

DbCA Classic Maillot sneak peek

Right now I’m working on a swimsuit pattern which should be available the first week of July.  I love swimsuit sewing and can’t wait to for you guys to get your hands on it.  Join the Designs by Call Ajaire facebook group  for more sneak peeks and info when it’s release.

Cross Over Flounce Dress Stand Alone Cover You can purchase Ajaire’s pattern for Crossover Flounce Dress as a single PDF HERE or visit her website to see more of her work HERE or purchase Issue 11 which contains this pattern HERE.

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